Ford Focus with Duratec engine.

[dave_ozz]

This is about the Ford Focus from about 2005 til 2011.

These cars were made in South Africa sold in Australia and else where and I believe the electronics is very similar world wide.

Mazda 3 has the same engine but a lot of odd ball stuff changed. Steering wheels are not interchangeable but the column looks very similar. Wheel PCS changed as did CV shafts. Engine Box mechanicals are almost identical.

Some had coil over spark plug while others are remote coil.

Copied from work I posted here.

http://www.ozclubbies.com.au/index.php?/topic/66-duratec-ford-and-mazda/

you need to join to read it. Originally set up for a Lotus 7 style replica. Exo cars are much better. :)

History of thread. I did post this on a forum some time back and the host lost the data. Google cache found it so it is a little disjointed. Posting and saving it here is great too. Thanks. Dave D

[dave_ozz]

List of goodies to make it work~

2.0l Duratec Motor
All standard engine sensors (Knock etc)
ECU + Matched Key
Cluster (needed for Pats Management)
Pick up Coil from around Focus Ignition Barrel
Engine Loom (I had to extend 4 wires from standard engine loom) Plus blocks for ECU and CLuster
Catalytic converter + O2 sensors Pre and post Cat
I used the Focus in tank Fuel Pump (internal regulator, no return line)
I also used the Focus Carbon Cannister
Focus Fly by wire Throttle pedal + connectors for loom
Standard Induction Fly by wire Thottle body (I used a Pod filter) you may need to use standard air box depending upon noise levels.

Hope this helps, there may be items I have forgotten, but I think the list is fairly complete.

[dave_ozz]

Focus Uprights, hubs and bearings.


This explains a lot about the Generation 3 Gen 3 Hubs.

IMG:http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/HubAssemblyGen3.jpg


Found here in this catalogue for New Technology Network.
Cat 4601/E
pdf_4122

http://www.who-sells-it.com/images/catalog...84/pdf_4122.pdf - you will need to google it.

The rotor is also the bearing.


Ball Joint Post.

Ford Focus Ball Joints. Lower unit shown.

If you are using the uprights then you may need these.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/FocusBallJointAfterMarket.jpg

And here too.

http://81.246.78.74/DetailPage.asp?artikel=67080

As soon as a get an Australian supplier, I will let you know. If you find it, let us all know.

Dave D.


Mazda 3 / 6 Lower Ball Joints info.

can you help here??

I know they are a parallel cotter pin arrangement.



Rear bearings

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Focusrearhubs1.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Focusrearhubs3.jpg


The black disk is the ABS rotor. the cover is removed carefully by tapping it out all the way around the housing. It took a bit of time as the plastic is soft and the grip is tight.

You can see how the axle is rolled over like a rivet to keep the inner races together.

Rear bearings are

Timken
516007

Measures
Bore=1.1417
2.0866" in diameter and 1.4567" in width

30mm Inside diameter 53mm Outer Diam 37mm wide

[dave_ozz]

Harrison R and D Electronics in Texas.

Had it connected to the Ford Falcon and was able to read O2 rpm temps etc and pleased with that.

Connected to the Ford Focus and was able to data log every 0.1 second. I realise I need to review the manual as it jumps off line every few minutes but I think it is the way I set up the system. I imported it into excel and can graph the data off line. It does a great job of "on line" graphing but scaling of rpm and O2 is a bit had to do on the current system so Excel lets you "normalise" the data.

PC on the car - scan tool on the keyboard.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Componcar.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/
bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Componcar.jpg

Screen shot of the info pulled as you connect.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/scantoolscanned.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/
bb238/dave_vic_ozz/scantoolscanned.jpg

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


For those interested and as a place to document the CanBus, I have found the following search topics to fast track the PIC18F CanBus chip.

If you understand C language you can search on

CAN_18xxx8.c
EX_CAN.c
EX_CAN_CCS_A.c
EX_CAN_CCS_B.c

These programs either precondition the chip to Rx Tx Can messages or are examples of what to do with the data.

I just need to get a C compiler, PIC chip hardware etc.

[dave_ozz]

Door wiring

Door closed and locked wiring. Research with the assistance of Gavin E.

Right hand drive Australian Focus. (yes they are slightly different around the world)

Aim is to modify the Door Closed wire at the internal fuse box so clears the LCD display on the Dash.

Door Unlocked and Locked status from central locking motor lever including manual button command lever striking this limit switches and the door ajar limit switch.

Connect all these to -Ve (chassis) and the Immobilizer and indicator lamps will work. (It does on my car.) Other wires float.
CJB C99 16 and 32 are Can Bus - disconecting these will have negitive concequences like Temp and brake fluid diagnostic fail.

CJB = Central Junction Box under the glove box
C99 is the connector on the CJB (See picture)
Number is the pin location

Black Orange (CJB C99 13) RHF locked
Black Yellow (CJB C99 12) RFH closed
Black Blue (CJB C99 9) LHF closed
Black Green (CJB C99 10) RHR closed
Black Orange (CJB C99 11) LHR closed
Black Red (CJB C99 26) Tail gate / boot / trunk closed


Right Hand Drive (text on display says drivers door open which is on the right side of the car.)
Unlocked ..............Locked ..................Closed

RHF
Black Green............Black Orange ............Black Yellow......
(CJB C99 14)............(CJB C99 13)............(CJB C99 12)

LHF
Black Green............Black Orange............Black Blue
(CJB C99 14)...........(CJB C99 13)............(CJB C99 9)
Note LHF and RHF doors unlocked and locked wires in parallel.

RHR
N/C....................N/C.....................Black Green
.................................................. .(CJB C99 10)

LHR
N/C....................N/C.....................Black Orange
.................................................. (CJB C99 11)
Rear doors do not have unlocked and locked limit switches.

Tail Gate / Boot ..............................Ajar
N/A.....................N/A.....................Black Red
.................................................. ..(CJB C99 26)

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Doorwiringintointernalfusebox.jpg

[dave_ozz]

Electric Power Steering Pump simulation. Research with the assistance of Gavin E.

Aim is to clear the alarm on the LCD dash as I'm using a 1970ish Escort rack.

This is work in progress.

G'Day Dave,

There are no limit switches on the rack. There's a vane + Hall effect or magnetic sensor arrangement.
The three wire plug going to the rack join to a flat plastic "thing" inside the column as part of the rack.
The flat "thing" sits between pairs of vanes, connected directly to the column.
There are six pairs of vanes, all equal.

Two of the wires found there seem to connect back to the pump: Yellow / purple, and Brown / white
(last from memory, brought the wrong notepad in to work today, so will confirm tomorrow).


I guess it tells how fast the wheel is being turned.
I guess we won't have to worry about them.

Cheers - Gavin

Good news about the vanes and hall effect. Agree it will be a speed thing.

It is however CANbus from the pump to the ECU.

I cannot believe I through mine away.

I think the best thing is to pull it apart and find the limits for the pressure, hopefully a switch. NO it isn't

Worst case is to simulate the pump with a PIC chip. Interesting days as it will need to be re engineered to get the same status back to the factory set-up but I have the reader (I hope it works)

Dave D.

BTW Gavin. Lets get together to disassemble the pump unit. - Has anyone done it yet?

Pump disassembled

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Pumpexploded_1.jpg

The white plastic cover was lost in the smash. Here the bottom cover is removed to expose the elctronics and electric motor.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Pumpexploded_2.jpg


Exploded to show what went where.


http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Pumpexploded_3.jpg

Above you can see the windings are stationary (Commonly known as an Brushless DC Motor or Outrunner Motor but this might be a brand name). The Can has magnets glued to it and it rotates around the stationary windings. My understanding is it works like a Stepper Motor and as such it's easy to control the speed and keep the Torque high. The shaft passes through to the pump in the reservoir.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/d...pexploded_4.jpg
You will need to copy and paste link as I have too many pics posted here.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Pumpexploded_4a.jpg
Above you can see a bright metal strip on the PCB. My guess is this is a current sensing device but it might only be for motor control.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Pumpexploded_5.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Pumpexploded_6.jpg
Above you can see the transistor style device (one of two) that sit under the motor windings. I'm unsure of their purpose.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Pumpexploded_7.jpg

The main control PCB. CanBus to the ECU but I will have to re-engineer the data transfered to understand the function.
No pressure switch to trick so back to basics.


Phillips TJA1050 Can bus chip

The larger chip infineon C164 CI-8EM
Controller Chip
Search for C164_um_v20 pdf file. It is 504 pages !!!!!


Understanding the Canbus signals
step 1 - work out how to make it talk.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/pumpcontrolandcanbus_spy.jpg


Step 2 - Find the node number for the power steering pump.

0x240 in this case. 00 E0 - I pulled it off the network, refreshed the scan then worked out what was missing, added it back to the network and sure enough 0x240 re-appeared.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/canbusdatawithpowersteering1.jpg


The Modtronix Circuit Board and PIC chip.
Ran out of image allowance http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/ModtronixCANbusconverter.jpg

Explanation I posted elsewhere but for those reading for the first time -

Simply CANbus is like automatic email. Think of the CANbus as the telephone line. Every 1/10th of a second the power steering pump sends an email to the ECU. The ECU automatically reads it. All the email says is something like 00 0A if it is happy and 00 0E if it is faulted.

I hope the Modtronix circuit board will replace the pump computer and we are going to Spam the ECU with 00 0A using the pumps email address to make it think the pump is working.

[dave_ozz]

The Ford Focus ECU on the battery box.

It is a sealled unit and the motor and body connect straight to it.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/FordFocusECUandbatterybox.jpg

[dave_ozz]

Hi guys,

I am just starting to come to grips with wiring for my Mazda 6 Locost. Can see a large hurdle ahead because I am not that smart at electrical things.
I got the 2003 engine, computer, dash panel, ignition lock, & complete car wiring loom from a wrecker, but the loom has hundreds of plugs on it & am struggling to find out what plug went to what. Not very much of the loom will be required, but I need to sort out which bits to keep & what to cut off.

For starters does anyone know where I can get a complete car wiring diagram from, with wire colours etc on it?

Thanks
Keith

Keith,

I can't help with a full wiring diagram but I did find most of the Mazda 6 workshop manuals on the net in PDF format. You're welcome to a copy of them on a CD. The main manual is about 1200 pages - the fuel/emissions section (which is mostly details on which connector has which diagnostic signal) is 230 pages on its own. If you've got a broadband internet connection with plenty of bandwidth limit you can download them yourself at http://www.igvita.com/misc/mazda_manual/ . Let me know if you want a CD.

Dominic

[dave_ozz]

Wiring

Common wires that can help in the build. See the CANbus post for CANbus.

Work in progress - updated if you send me the info if I didn't find it.

CJB Central Junction Box under the dash
BJB Battery Junction Box next to the battery.

Handbrake
Black/Red. The manual says Black/Yellow on one page and Black/red elsewhere
The wire goes into the cluster.

Brake fluid
Black/Yellow - it goes direct to the CJB. There is another black/yellow going to the BJB for the Air Con low pressure. Use care.

Foot brake and Clutch
Black/yellow on both sides of switch. One side to chassis and the others to the cluster.
Don't mix them as Clutch is N/O and closes if pedal pressed.
Brake is N/C and opens if pedal pressed.
See stop light for the other wires

Air conditioner - These can be removed
These to BJB and onto the CJB
Pressure sensor
Brown/white
White/Violet
Yellow/Violet
These to the BJB relays
Low pressure
Black/Yellow
Black Red

There is also control to the compressor clutch. I plan pulling the fuse and relay and cutting the clutch wire at the clutch and removing the compressor.


Fuel pump and level sender
Pump
Green/Orange

Sender to Cluster
White/red
Brown/red


ABS
Fuses in the BJB fuse panel but under separate cover.
Power 10Amp Ign
Green/Yellow
Power 30Amp Pump Motor
Red
Power 20Amp Valves
Red

RHF White/Red Brown/Red
RHR White/Green Brown/Green
LHF White Brown
LHR White/Blue Brown/Blue


Lighting

Right turn
Front Blue and the centre lamp is Blue/White/White
Rear might be Blue/red (tech info is confusing)

Left turn
Blue/Orange and the centre lamp is Blue/Red
Rear might be Blue (tech info is confusing)

Headlights
LHS Green/orange
RHS Green/white

High Beam
LHS Green/black
RHS Green/orange


Park
LHS front Orange Blue
RHS front Orange/green


Tail
LHS Rear Orange/green
RHS Rear Orange


Licence
Orange/black


Fog
Front
At lamp Green/white/white then splits to Green/Yellow near the lamp and onto CJB. It joins Green/blue to cluster LED.

Rear
Relay Green/blue
CJB Green/Yellow
Caution:- Could be same colour as reverse lamps.


Stop
Main wire is Green/White/White from secondary brake switch
It becomes
Green/Black RHS
Green/Yellow High mount
Green/Red LHS

Reverse
Green/black then Green/yellow
Caution:- Could be same colour as rear fog lamps.


Outside temp
Brown/yellow
White/black

Hood ajar Bonnet
Black/Yellow

Alarm Horn
Orange/green

Horn
Orange/blue

Hazard Switch on dash
2 Black/orange to CJB
3 Green/black From light switch
4 Black/Orange (could go to chassis)


Fan
From the power train control module the Air conditioner and engine coolant temperature control the fan speed. Disconnecting the air con didn't seem to effect the operation.
Power 60 Amp Red
Black chassis
Blue = fan speed
Unsure of operation so need to check this later.

Wipers and Washers
Note. The wiper motor relays connect chassis (0Vdc) to the live side of the motor after switching off. The motor locks itself as it becomes an overloaded generator and resists turning and keeps the wipers stationary.

Washer
White/Black Yellow/Black

Front Wiper
White/Green Slow?
White/Black Fast?
Black/Orange relay interlock for park

Rear Wiper
White/Red
Orange/Blue

Seat belt switch
White
Brown
This goes to the Airbag module. Lamp on dash controlled from there.

OBD Connector

3 CANbus Grey
4 Chassis ground Black
5 Signal ground Black/Orange
6 CANbus Grey/Red
11 CANbus Blue
14 CANbus Blue/Red
16 12Vdc from battery Orange
Go to the top of the page



Central Junction Box. In the schematics it is labeled CJB.

Also know as the White Fuse Panel or White Box and other similar descriptive names.

This is located under the glove box. It has several inputs late get converted to CANbus signals to the dash and ECU.


http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/CentralJunctionBox.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/CentralJunctionBoxInternal.jpg


Some people have bypassed this in the system but if you plan to use the gauges you will get error messages without a work around.

[dave_ozz]

Ford Focus Throttle and Accelerator post. Fly by wire.

Pictures to follow.

The electronic throttle body has 6 wires


Electronic Throttle Control ETC…Power Control Module A147
1 ETC+.........................................22 Green Red
2 ETC-..........................................10 Black Orange
3 TPSi/P1 PPSi/P1.......................37 White Blue
4 TPS RTN (Return) ....................38 Brown Blue
5 TPSV REF – PPSi REF.............25 White Blue
6 TPSi/P2......................................26 Yellow Blue


From a Google search I believe this means
TPSV
Throttle position sensor voltage 0-5Volts; typically 0.5 volts at idle & 4.5 at full throttle.

TPSi
Throttle position sensor opening feedback.


Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor.

Accel.................... Instrument Cluster..... Power Control Module C690.......Central Junc Box C100
1 5V+....................31 Yellow
2 Signal.................14 White
3 Ground 0Vdc.......13 Brown

4 Chassis 0Vdc
5 Apps.............................................. ......32 Grey
6 12Vdc............................................. .............................7 C100 Fuse F75

Instrument Cluster to Power Control Module
..............................18 High Can Hi...........41
..............................17 High Can Lo..........30

I am not sure of the definition of "Apps".


The pedal
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/accel.jpg


The yellow cylinder rotates on the pivot point as the pedal is pressed. The circuit board - not in contact with the face of the yellow cylinder - most likely induces a change in the "coils" on the circuit board.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/accelinternals.jpg


View into the curcuit of the pedal. I have not opened it but I'm sure there will be another comuter chip in there.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/accelinternalcircuits.jpg

[dave_ozz]

CANbus simulator for faking the unwanted items on the Focus.

Recent purchases.

1. PIC programmer and software.

ICD 2.5 USB http://ajdz.net/icd25usb.htm
I found it on EBay and will test it soon.

Basically
I need to write a program so the computer PIC chip simulates the CanBus.
Download it to the PIC chip via USB using this interface.
I can use this programmer to duplicate the PIC chip functionality.

2. CanBus ready, PIC chip assembled circuit board.
http://www.modtronix.com.au/product_info.p...products_id=110
Ideally this board will emulate the power steering pump, after the PIC chip programming above and will remain in the car wiring.
Then test it and try again and again until it works.

Both units are about AUD$70.00 to AUD$80.00 (USD$50 USD$60.00)

Dave D.

[dave_ozz]

The ECU doesn't get much of a chance to think of much. The Visteon Levanta is a very clever and powerfull unit in its own right, but for some reason the Focus Duratech implementation farms a lot of stuff that could be done out to two other modules which is actually a bonus for us. These modules and the ancilliary modules (ABS airbags etc) chat amongst themselves on the two CANBUS's in the car. As we've removed one complete CANBUS we've also removed the device that linked the two buses so the lack of Modules (like ABS etc) don't even get reported back to the ECU.

The Focus fuel pump is a good idea if only because it's easy to control, and only requires one fuel line to the front of the car. Electrically it's just as simple to control as any aftermarket setup, that is you need the ECU to control a Relay to control supply of power to the pump. The pump should (for safety and emissions purposes) only run when the engine is cranking or actually running. The Focus ECU pre-primes the fuel system when key-on happens (you'll hear the pump run for about 2 secs) and then it'll only fire the pump when there's a valid crank/cam sensor signal.

PATS is worth keeping because unlike every aftermarket solution it's completely integrated and 100% ADR compliant. It also means you don't have to stuff about getting your ECU De-PATS'd before you can turn key. You can always shift the PATS hardware around so you have a dongle you hold near a "magic point" on the dash while turning the ignition on. The Hardware & Software to De-PATS is easy enough to get and not even expensive in comparison to building the car, but it's another bit of gear you'll need to borrow or need to pay for on top of the Aftermarket unit. The worst thing about PATS is having to keep the instrument cluster board somewhere, but that gives you a really awesome way of immobilising your car while on holidays.. (IMG:http://www.oz-clubbies.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/icon_smile.gif)

To give a perspective on the CANBUS gear FIGJAM and I are using for diagnosis and as "instruments" for calibration purposes...
1. Handheld Code-reader with sensor logging and graphing in real time. This device also has a full database of codes (so instead of saying "P0198" on a screen that then needs to be looked up in the manual it gives plain english "Lost communication with ABS module"). It will read every sensors value and can chart them on screen in real time. ie on my car I was watching the cat-convertor temperature change while driving trough a carwash.. OK perhaps that's a small thing for a small mind, but a very cool demo of the technology. The great thing here is that we can calibrate the instruments perfectly (tacho, temperature etc). This tool cannot write back to the car, except to clear the MIL and Pending codes registers. My particular unit retails around the $500 mark... (although I have seen the cheaper)

2. USB > CANBUS interface. Mines a cheapy ELM1.3 based device that will happily listen on the CANBUS and also write basic data back to the bus. Working with published data and a bit of creative data watching you can pretty much do anything except write new engine management code back to the ECU. It's a more complex version of this type of cable (a J2534 protocol) that works with Ford saoftware to do reflashing. At the moment the reflash capable cables are about $800 and then you need access to the OEM service software which is a subscription pack for variable costs. The advantage of this is you can see everything happening and there's heaps of software to do instrumentation and datalogging.


As for using the "Birkin" (or other kit, or DIY) loom for the chassis stuff and only keeping a minimal amount of the Focus wiring really what you're doing is building a simple, and highly Clubbie centric loom, You have only the wiring you need running about the car, you're going to have off-the-shelf relays and connectors for everything, simple and easy to install, repair and enhance down the track. Sure you could cut down the Focus loom (ala Locost) but by the time you strip the wiring, re-tape it, add in more "common" connectors instead of all the specific plugs for lights etc and manage to mount the two fuse boxes and all that you'll have spent a lot more time and money than you'd think.

In FIGJAMS car I chose to use all functions that the chassis loom provided (it was set up for a Zetec I think) because at the end of the day all any ECU really cares about is:
1. What's the Key position
2. Where are my sensors
3. How can I manipulate my outputs (injectors/ignition/fuel pump control) to produce what my basic inputs and programming tell me to.
As the Durtech engine loom is pretty much self contained with the ECU we only needed the wiring to give power (Battery, KEYON, IGN), Starter inhibit, Fuel pump and Fan controls, plus the Drive-by-wire and Instrument cluster loom. This amounts to 17 wires.


We did some more work on the Engine loom to make it lay a little better and stripped out the bits we didn't need. We have had to run a tacho wire back from the coil pack on Cylinder 4.

It sounds quite simple now as I write this but we have got over a year of research tied up in this and we have had the benefit of good factory manuals and wiring diagrams for both the US and Australian models (the US wiring is similar but not the same enough to count on)

A.

[dave_ozz]

Electronic Electrical external links. Mostly for Australia.

Need to add or remove a link? PM me please.

CanBus ready, PIC chip assembled circuit board.
http://www.modtronix.com.au/product_info.p...products_id=110
Ideally this board will emulate the power steering pump, after the PIC chip programming above and will remain in the car wiring.

These folk are might be getting the software to modify ECU to ignore / bypass the remote locking but I will retain my system.
(Please PM me the correct details.)

http://www.mmsport.com.au/
http://www.birkin.com.au/Contacts.php

Harrison R and D Electronics -
Tool to monitor the CANBus traffic including code reset and monitoring performance. This is the one I purchased.
http://www.obdscan.net/scantools.htm

code reset and monitoring.
http://www.scantool.net/products/

Why it is so.
http://www.cardlabs.com/CardLabs_obd2.htm

This has to be the best technical data link - updated and managed. Generic data for all cars but gives you a good understanding of what goes on.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs - PC points to location, ECU sends value back
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_of_OBD-II_Codes - What went wrong. Records the faults
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CANbus - The comms protocol.

on Wiki search for "CANbus", "OBD ii", "Ford Focus" and "Mazda 3" And you get a heap of info.

Trip reset Button code decoder
http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=37

http://www.focussport.com/sct_flasher.htm

Ranger Truck info here
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=8
These folk have similar issues to us.








Mechanical external links.


Need to add or remove a link? PM me please.



These guys were working on a Toyota Wxx to Duratec Bell Housing. Many are waiting to see the results, more info required?
http://www.dellowauto.com.au/

Raceline in the UK
http://www.raceline.co.uk/duratecframes.htm


http://www.eurospeed.com.au/index.htm
Geebung Queensland

Ranger Truck info here
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=8
These folk have similar issues to us.



MX5 Gearboxs from the NC3 series to fit Duratec.
Fly Wheel to Drive shaft coming soon.
MX5 Plus, Brisbane, Qld
http://www.mx5plus.com.au/

[dave_ozz]

The Cluster Post.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Clusterall.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/Clusterall.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/FordFocusclustermainpanel.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/FordFocusclustermainpanel.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/FordFocusclusterLEDBezels.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb238/dave_vic_ozz/FordFocusclusterLEDBezels.jpg

Initially I was planning to desolder the airbag LED but I see now all I need to do is cover the bezel from behind the plastic sheet. That plastic stuff has a name but I the name escapes me. The stepper motors are mounted to the back circuit board material. The hands on the dials are really stuck on and I fear I might pull the stepper motor apart getting them off to get to the internal circuit board.

Dave

[dave_ozz]

Wheel compatibility charts for Focus, Mondeo, MX5, 3 and 6
(Australian delivered cars but interested in what other counties have.)

Ford Focus Mondeo
PCD 5 x 108
Offset 38 - 42
Bore diameter 63.4

Don't forget if you need ABS.

Same as
Jaguar S and X type (Suspect these are identical)
Also look at the earlier Focus and Mondeo's.

These other upright hubs could be machined to fit the wheels but it needs proving. 65mm boss machined to 63.4mm?
BUT if you use the wheels the hub will not take the load, the wheel studs will do all the work. Not good.

Citroen XM
Lincoln continental 1990 - don't know of too many in Australia.
Peugeot 5 stud with a boss of 65mm and 35 offset. Very close.

Volvo 5 stud a boss of 65mm but 20mm offset

Holden Torana ?????


Mazda MX5, 3 and 6

PCD is 5 x 114.3


Max Rim 17 x 6.5 from SP23

still checking the offset but I am using Nissan Skyline rims 17 x 7.5 and I am sure they match
they had better or I am in the S&&t

Ian R

Earlier MX-5 4 stud is 4x100 the same as Gemini.

Can anyone fill in the blanks please?

[dave_ozz]

Specs on the car



is 4488mm long, a 1840mm wide, a 1443mm in height
wheelbase of 2640mm with a front track of 1535mm and 1531mm at the rear.

standard issue 2.0lt engine delivers 107kW at 6000rpm and 185Nm at 4500rpm to haul an all-up weight of 1283-1320kg for the sedan and 1269-1294kg for the hatch, depending on transmission and equipment.

[dave_ozz]

Probably one of the handiest URLs if you're going to play with the Mazda versions of the Duratec is http://www.allmazda.net

It's essentially an online parts catalog just like what the dealers use. Will help you get part numbers (and Euro) pricing for just about everything. At the very least it'll give you a way of working out what is what.

For example you could use the site to locate the PATS module on a 2005 Mazda3

You do need to sign up though.