First USA Sonic7! -- & also my first build...

[cordycord]

We've made the changes to the rear suspension in order re-locate the lower shock mount and also to allow for caster adjustment. Please note: the upright shown will not be used, but is just there for mock-up.

As we're using a Speed3 motor, and a Mazda 3 5-speed transmission, our half-shaft mounting options have been stymied a bit. The stock hub uses a bearing that's mushroomed in place--it would be nearly impossible to remove w/o ruining the hub, so AWR is fabricating a new carrier for it to be mounted to a new 4130 upright plate.

--Notice that the lower shock mount has been moved back to make it more upright and out to increase the very short shock travel.

--The second shot shows the funky bolt and monster washer that holds a Mazda 3 wheel in place. Unique. It also shows the caster adjustment care of a heim.

--Heim close-up and weld.

Damn!!! I forgot to get a picture of the exhaust! The funniest part is that it's made from 3" stainless, and absolutely makes the turbo look like a toy.

[golftdibrad]

I've got NO idea. To be honest, I don't even know what a Hartley motor is. Person? Configuration? I think it the propoganda said that it put out 550hp, which ain't too shabby.

http://www.h1v8.com/page/page/1562068.htm

v8 with busa heads. BAD ASS.

[cordycord]

http://www.h1v8.com/page/page/1562068.htm

v8 with busa heads. BAD ASS.

Ahhhhh....THAT motor. The Busa has plenty of aftermarket support, all the way up to one of the coolest V8's made. Who can argue with 2.8 liters, 400 horsepower and 11,000 rpm?

Truth be told, my next car build will be driven by a Hayabusa motor. Is the cat out of the bag? :)

[cordycord]

Okay, cat IS out of the bag. I'm building a second car. It's an xO400 and can be found at www.xosportscars.com. I will be making a new build thread on exocars.net as the build progresses...:)

Glutton for punishment much?

[FIAROADSTER]

Come on now, you cannot drop a couple of lines like so much bait, and then log off! Give is MORE!
I tried to contact XOcars and was basically unsucessful. Response was minimal.
Staring anxiously at my screen for an update.
Rick

[cordycord]

Hi Rick,

The real updates have been on xO Sports Cars website, which has gone through some minor reconstruction. You'll see more pictures, more layouts, and a general idea of the vehicles. BTW, the car with the white bodywork is heading over here by slow boat--hopefully I'll get it by Christmas...

You should be able to reach Gakiem with no problems on his site via xosportscars@gmail.com. I plan to put up many of the pre-shipment fabrication pictures of the car, and discuss some of the design decisions that were arrived at for the x0400.

By now everybody "gets" xO, right? EXO = xO ? ;)

[Nigel]

Okay, cat IS out of the bag. I'm building a second car. It's an xO400 and can be found at www.xosportscars.com. I will be making a new build thread on exocars.net as the build progresses...:)

Glutton for punishment much?

Hi Cord

You really must be a glutton for punishment :run: 2 builds at the same time.

Anyway have come across 'Mr Gates' on the LocostBuilders forum before, think 'cheapracers' had words as well :( Sudgest you might just want to take things slowly and check this thread out in the mean time http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=107969&page=1

Hows that Sonic 7 coming on I want to see it running. :thumb2:

[Nigel]

Okay, cat IS out of the bag. I'm building a second car. It's an xO400 and can be found at www.xosportscars.com. I will be making a new build thread on exocars.net as the build progresses...:)

Glutton for punishment much?

Hi Cord

You really must be a glutton for punishment :run: 2 builds at the same time.

Anyway have come across 'Mr Gakes' on the LocostBuilders forum before, think 'cheapracers' had words as well :( Sudgest you might just want to take things slowly and check this thread out in the mean time http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=107969&page=1

Hows that Sonic 7 coming on I want to see it running. :thumb2:

[cordycord]

Nigel, I've read the threads. More importantly, I've discussed the car at length before committing to Gakes. What I see in the threads is a big pile-on by a bunch of would-be manufacturers--I can't decide if they sound more like school girls or know-it-all builders, but I don't like it and feel that much of the criticism is misplaced.

Believe me--I've purchased a kit from an "established" builder, only to run into one problem after another. The weaknesses I see in the Sonic design have been addressed in this one. The Sonic will be finished, and will end up being a really nice car. But the whole episode has caused me to lose my initial enthusiasm for the design.

Before the Sonic, I had wanted to make my own car design using a Hayabusa motor. Now I feel like I'm getting that chance.

I'll criticize all day long, but also lay open my faults and not hide them. I see Gakes doing this to a degree in the thread and getting pummeled because of it. Anyway, the proof's in the puddin'. Should the xO Sports Car build go poorly, then everyone will know. As I specifically asked Gakes to fit a 'Busa motor with a stock differential and electric reverse, then I'll have to kick my own ass if that doesn't work. :)

[Nigel]

Was just trying to make sure you were aware of pasted issues, especially as you point out your enthusiasm has been a little dented with the Sonic.

Not quite sure I read the thread the same way as you, one or two of the pictures especially the front lower wishbone were quite alarming although I accept, have now been addressed. As far as the people involved in the criticism I have come across one or two in person at various shows in the UK and although I might not always agree with them I wouldn’t consider them to be school girls or know-it-all builders.

I do hope you find what your looking for with this build and I truly wish you every success in your endeavour.

Looking forward to following you new thread. :)

[cordycord]

Thanks Nigel, I appreciate the sentiment. My impression towards those who posted in the thread are based on the thread only. Maybe I should have said "misinterpretation" instead of "piling-on", "school girl" and "know-it-alls". Wow, I was on a roll...:D

If you get a chance to check out the new suspension pieces on Gakes website--I'd like your input. Hopefully some of those school girls will chime in too. :)

[Nigel]

Thanks Nigel, I appreciate the sentiment. My impression towards those who posted in the thread are based on the thread only. Maybe I should have said "misinterpretation" instead of "piling-on", "school girl" and "know-it-alls". Wow, I was on a roll...:D

If you get a chance to check out the new suspension pieces on Gakes website--I'd like your input. Hopefully some of those school girls will chime in too. :)

Had a quick look at Gakes website, but little unsure as to which pictures represent his current thinking and design ? Don’t want to be passing comment on something that is now history, so if you could post a couple of pictures of his current thinking on chassis and suspension components I’ll be more than happy to give you my opinion for what its worth. :)

If you feel brave, you could also post the pictures on the LocostBuilders Forum and ask for comments - from the 'school girls' :run:

[cordycord]

Had a quick look at Gakes website, but little unsure as to which pictures represent his current thinking and design ? Don’t want to be passing comment on something that is now history, so if you could post a couple of pictures of his current thinking on chassis and suspension components I’ll be more than happy to give you my opinion for what its worth. :)

If you feel brave, you could also post the pictures on the LocostBuilders Forum and ask for comments - from the 'school girls' :run:

Posting pics is now on my "to do" list. :)

[cordycord]

BTW, for those interested I have put up some build pictures of the xO400 in "Other ExoCars" area:

http://www.exocars.net/showthread.php?t=4302&page=2

[cordycord]

Work is starting on the exhaust. It's almost comical to see the tiny turbo compared to the 3" exhaust. If I ever felt like this car didn't have enough "oomph", a bigger turbo would cure that in an instant.

A turbo exhaust is treated a bit different than a NA unit--heat and free flow are more important than scavenging, exhaust pulses, velocity, etceteras.

I found an exhaust by Sebring Tuning that is 15" long, with offset to offset openings, which means that the exhaust curves can be a bit more radiused. It will probably go to a center outlet.

[golftdibrad]

thats hot!

[cordycord]

The bodywork goes back on for fitment with the suspension, etceteras.

We've decided to add rear bracing from the rollbar to the back of the frame, which will make for some more tricky bodywork, but a safer, more stout setup.

Without wheels, it looks like it might need an outboard fitted. :)

[cheapracer]

As I have posted all along about the Sonic, what a great looking sports car.

[dinosaurjuice]

wow. even in plain black it looks awesome.

im failing to see how going from a sonic to an XO400 is a step forward. unless you have a long term plan of selling the cars yourself?

will

[cordycord]

Honestly, I haven't seen the xO400 in person yet, so a truthful comparison can't be made. Believe me, there will be a comparison when the xO arrives, and if it doesn't measure up it will be reported here. I have no plans to sell these cars myself, but would absolutely help anyone who was interested in buying a car for themselves. For that matter, anyone visiting Southern California can stop by and see both cars once the xO arrives.

I've been in contact with Gakes for quite a while. The design elements that were important to me were discussed ad nauseum, so If any of the car doesn't measure up, I'll be partly to blame.

If you really want to get an idea of what's happened during the Sonic build, start with post 204 (page 21!) and go from there. While the Sonic looks great, mine has been flawed from the start. If you've been through what I've been through, you wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the xO.

I've always wanted to build my own car design, with help from the many experts I have available to me, but thought that "dipping my foot" in with the Sonic would be a good way to start. It has, and many of the flaws I found with the Sonic design (and with my own construction) I hope to address with the xO400.

Cars like these, at least for me, are never finished. As soon as they are, there's a "for sale" sign on them. That's my twisted mentality, but also one of the reasons why I'd want to build one in the first place. Always improve.

[cordycord]

BTW, bodywork comes back off, brake lines and rear brake setup finished, engine gets dropped, roll bar goes in, clutch/flywheel fitted, Mazda 3 fuel rail swap, electronics installed, exhaust, and prep/paint all need to be done before the bodywork goes back on--hopefully for the final time. Then we've got wheels/tires and finish work. Phew!

[dinosaurjuice]

why are you swapping the fuel rail :hscratch:

[kennyrayandersen]

Here are a pictures of a Honda Beat convertible. Supposedly there are only a handful of these cars in the U.S. This one is special because it's hiding a Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa motor (180hp stock) in the back, connected to a Quaife differential with reverse. :awais:

If you look closely, you can see the crinkle-finished airbox being surrounded by the folded top. The air comes via the working side air intake in front of the rear wheel.

I love that car -- I wish it were legal. You would have to pull some serious shenanigans to get one in country and then you'd feel like you had to look over your shoulder all of the time cause the Feds would be out to get you. I can't imagine it with a Busa...

[cordycord]

why are you swapping the fuel rail :hscratch:

I'm planning on swapping from direct injection to fuel rail this week. Check back next week to see if I've found something better. :)

The engine I'm using--the MazdaSpeed3, is an awesome motor. It's turbocharged, intercooled, variable valve, direct injection. I can try to use the stock ECU, close all the ABS/seatbelt sensor/airbag and other sensors, including resistors, or I can use an AEM or other standalone ECU. The problem is that none of the standalone units I've found can handle the direct injection of the Mazda. Actually, I think Motec has something available, for $15,000...

[dinosaurjuice]

using the maxda ECU etc would be the best option surely? not to mention cheapest. you can probably get away with loosing the ABS and other non-critical modules on the CANbus. i did.

The direct injection is what will set this car out from others in my opinion.

will

[cordycord]

Thanks Will,

That's the preferred option--we just haven't gotten there yet. How did you de-authorize the ABS (etceteras) modules from CANbus, and did it also include running jumpers and resistors to close those circuits? Inquiring minds want to know. There are other people on this forum working with the LNF motors (GM) that also need to get these complex motors to work with a simple wiring harness.

[dinosaurjuice]

try starting the engine with as much as possible plugged in. then start removing fuses for things 1 at a time and attempting a re-start. dont simply unplug them.

the canbus will have a 'source' which MUST be included. its usually the instrument cluster or the ECU. apart from that anything else can just be unplugged so long as the ECU doesnt regard it as critical.

resistance between can+ and can- should be about 60ohms. can+ should have an RMS voltage of about 2.7, can- about 2.2. presuming its a 512kbps CAN. if these values are not somewhere near, theres a problem.

before disconnecting/connecting anything from the CAN, disconnect power for at least 30 seconds. the CAN system is fairly tolerant, for example: connecting the wires together, or even letting one of them touch +12v is unlikely to cause damage, but avoid if possible.

the mazda may have also used a CANlow network for things like electric windows etc. this is a narrower bandwidth ~112kbps, and is rarely used for anything critical.

will

[cordycord]

try starting the engine with as much as possible plugged in. then start removing fuses for things 1 at a time and attempting a re-start. dont simply unplug them.

the canbus will have a 'source' which MUST be included. its usually the instrument cluster or the ECU. apart from that anything else can just be unplugged so long as the ECU doesnt regard it as critical.

resistance between can+ and can- should be about 60ohms. can+ should have an RMS voltage of about 2.7, can- about 2.2. presuming its a 512kbps CAN. if these values are not somewhere near, theres a problem.

before disconnecting/connecting anything from the CAN, disconnect power for at least 30 seconds. the CAN system is fairly tolerant, for example: connecting the wires together, or even letting one of them touch +12v is unlikely to cause damage, but avoid if possible.

the mazda may have also used a CANlow network for things like electric windows etc. this is a narrower bandwidth ~112kbps, and is rarely used for anything critical.

will

Thanks Will, I'm not to this point yet, but I hope to use some of this good information. I've got the ECU and gauge cluster, but otherwise the engine was sourced without a car--no fuse box, no harness beyond the engine harness, etceteras. I do have the wiring diagram, so that means I also have a starting point.

[cordycord]

We got a little more done with the car today. We really opened up the rear of the body for the rear suspension with the thought that we'll make some stainless plates afterwards. Maybe.

There's also a picture of the rear license plate area that's been relieved of fiberglass. The cool little Sebring exhaust is also visible. The Sebring Tuning website is a bit hard to navigate, but I like their stuff. The idea is to snake the exhaust so that it routs out the center/back. The hole will be covered in black mesh and will help evacuate the engine heat.

There's also a picture of the newest F1 technology--off-center brake rotors. It's the latest craze. :)

Last, a proper AWR Racing roll cage.

[cordycord]

Quick post--while I'm on vacation watching the snow fall in Park City, my dad went to the California DMV on January 4th and got the SB100 paperwork started. I filled out the forms that are listed on this forum, and apparently the process went very smoothly. I've now got SB100 placeholders for the Sonic and the xO400. I'll still need to take them into an approved station for vehicle verification of compliance. Otherwise, a BIG hurdle jumped.

[cordycord]

We're finalizing the suspension to the point where it can be taken off and out of the way. After that, the engine and bodywork will do the same. Plumbing and electric and shaving parts of the frame down to fit the bodywork will go next.

--Enkei RFP1 17x8.5 wheels shown. They are backspaced 40mm. This car will need zero to negative backspacing in order to fit the fenders, stays and bigger rims.

--bodywork fitment will probably happen next week, prior to removal

--A rollbar is being fabricated with two support struts that will reach to the back of the frame. We're trying to figure out how to fit the struts through the bodywork so that the engine cover can come off--split in half down the center, across the middle, or....?

[Karlo]

It starting to look like a real car :coolnana:

[cheapracer]

Looking sweet Cord.

[cordycord]

It starting to look like a real car :coolnana:

Not any more! :) The bodywork came back off today in order to work on the front suspension and to grind down the frame where it's touching the bodywork. Although it looks like a step backward, The hope is the next time the bodywork goes on will be the last.

pic 1--The windscreen mount panel is becoming a "challenge". It's a bit tweaked, and is full up against the frame--and still too short. We're trying a couple of tricks to fit it--hope they work.

pic 2, The intercooler is the same size as the OEM, but flipped over like a book page from on top of the engine. It's also much thicker and should be MUCH more efficient. We'd like to train the air scoop to blow through the intercooler and out through the back of the engine bay.

pic 3-- Here's the engine sans intercooler. Note the exhaust hole, taped over air inlet hole (turbo center) and the blue air route to the intercooler. It's all on one side of the car, so we need to segregate the hot from the cold.

pic 4--The back shot gives a good idea of where everything will end up. The exhaust will have one more U turn and exit just above the rear frame "V". The top corner frame sections will have plates welded to them, and then will be connected to the rollbar supports. This will serve to protect my gourd (a little) and increase frame stiffness at the rear of the car.

pic 5--I'm ready to order these Enkei RP-F1 hoops. While there are other "$exier" wheels with deeper rims, etceteras, none that I like come within 5 pounds of these suckers. Enkei claims 14.7lbs for a 17x7 hoop--nice. If you have a better choice (low offset, please), tell me now. BTW, the hole pattern I'm using is 5 x 114.3 (5 x 4.5").

[cordycord]

Here are a couple of bodywork pictures I also took today.

Pic 1--Note the blue intercooler hose peeking out.

Pic 2--Now you can see the unshielded exhaust behind the intercooler hose. The cover will be put on and extended, and protected from heat. Left alone, this setup would have bubbling paint after the first drive.

Pic 3--The rear hole for the suspension has been completely opened up. If it bothers me later, I'll make a stainless template and rivet it in place.

Pic 4--Driver side body clearance.

Pic 5--Passenger side body clearance (none). All square edges of the frame are being shaved to prevent the heartache of watching a pristine paint job get demolished from the inside.

[cordycord]

Forgot to mention--I switched to a 4 x 4.5 wheel pattern (5 x 114.3mm), which means that the Focus wheels won't fit. Thanks anyway, Brad. :)

[cordycord]

Some nice clean-up work done today. The frame edges were shaved and capped so that they don't rub on the inner fiberglass. The 'glass has actually cracked in some areas already, so the work was necessary.

Seeing as Rally Design UK considers us Americans to be litigious gits, they wouldn't sell me the needed steering rod ends to connect to their uprights. Tony at AWR fit Miata ends instead, which necessitated chucking up the rod end sleeves in a lathe. The sleeves fit inside the Rally Design steering arm, attached to the uprights. The rod end connector also allows for Ackerman adjustment without having to disconnect the rod end.

Last the back corners of the frame have been capped off. The idea is that the rollbar supports will be bolted to the plates--we're still trying to figure out how the engine cover will slide off. :)

Edit--I forgot to say that Nigel kindly offered to purchase the needed rod ends for me--thanks Nigel! I decided since the RS2000 rod ends aren't readily available in the U.S., it would be wiser to make the switch now rather than later.

[cordycord]

Early on in the project we swapped out the stock Speed 3 six speed transmission for the Mazda 3 five speed transmission. It's physically much smaller, and must weigh at least 60lbs less.

The tradeoff is that we lost the limited slip from the six speed. Luckily Mazda has a limited slip option for the Mazda 3 transmission. The best part--it's about $230 retail. Crazy cheap for limited slip!

More luck--the pinion for the quick rack has been missing for quite a while--long enough for me to forget if I even received one. It turned up, so the standard rack will be switched out to a quick ratio on the 7.

[cordycord]

Included are pictures of my mad skillz with safety wire--I'm expecting a phone call from Ross Brawn at any moment. :)

I also took apart the steering rack, only to confirm that the MEV quick rack is for right hand drive only--it won't work on my car. Damn!

[Lynn]

Included are pictures of my mad skillz with safety wire--I'm expecting a phone call from Ross Brawn at any moment. :)

I also took apart the steering rack, only to confirm that the MEV quick rack is for left had drive only--it won't work on my car. Damn!

just trying to help you safe and you need a little work on the wire thing before Ross is going to call
http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14014/css/14014_115.htm

[cordycord]

Thanks Lynn. Safety wiring doesn't look as pretty when the bolt holes don't line up like in the diagrams. All the same, I probably shouldn't be expecting that call...

[Lynn]

Thanks Lynn. Safety wiring doesn't look as pretty when the bolt holes don't line up like in the diagrams. All the same, I probably shouldn't be expecting that call...

some times you can try a different bolt in a different hole to get the holes where you want them. the main thing is the safety wire should be twisted all the way to the bolt head. wrapped slightly around the head in a direction that will tighten the bolt if you were to pull on the wire and tight between the bolts so it won't vibrate and cause the wire to wear and break.

[cordycord]

Trying different bolts until they line up properly--I'll have to try that. I've safety wired bikes before, and it's mainly holding back the fluids and drilling your own bolts. When you drill your own, it's easy to make them line up correctly.

[cordycord]

The motor's coming out for a couple of reasons--the transmission is being separated to install the limited slip, and the lightweight flywheel and clutch will be installed. The timing will be reset and the lightweight crank pulley installed. The Speed3 has a really strange timing setup where there is no key way or other mark to set timing up at the crank pulley--if you remove the pulley and move the crank--timing is off.

There are a couple of pictures that show the rollbar along with the mounting plates we installed at the back of the frame.

It sure looked a lot closer to completion with the bodywork on it...

[pook]

The euro cars I work on no loger use keyways either each and every type motor has it's own jig that locks down the cams/crank then the timing is set.
So whats the ETA?
PooK

[cordycord]

The euro cars I work on no loger use keyways either each and every type motor has it's own jig that locks down the cams/crank then the timing is set.
So whats the ETA?
PooK

"ETA" is such a nebulous concept. :)

Why no more keyways? Certainly not price...strength?

The car actually looks LESS done today than it did four months ago. No bodywork, no engine, most other "stuff" removed. I spent a while today just tidying up and covering the frame with plastic. The rollbar has been painted, and the limited slip differential should be installed this week. Plumbing and electrical are on the list. The big hurdles that are next involve the ECU on the Mazda DISI motor. Pictures hopefully soon.

[pook]

I suspect so robots can assemble the parts, the gears are tapper press fit to the cams and no one has to align anything till the final torque is put on the gear, then by use of a jig it can't be screwed up.
It'll get there!
PooK

[golftdibrad]

The euro cars I work on no loger use keyways either each and every type motor has it's own jig that locks down the cams/crank then the timing is set.
So whats the ETA?
PooK

my TDI is like that. Its quite cleaver, the timing belt is tensioned then the cam gear is torqued onto a taper fit. Takes alot of the nasty math out of the belt train design.

[cordycord]

my TDI is like that. Its quite cleaver, the timing belt is tensioned then the cam gear is torqued onto a taper fit. Takes alot of the nasty math out of the belt train design.

It's clever until you try to install a new drive pulley with none of the custom tools needed to hold everything in place! What a PITA.:run: Tony says that some of the washer faces used in the crank assembly are diamond encrusted in order to prevent slippage.

Like I said--the car looks less done than it has in months--hopefully those looks are deceiving...

[cordycord]

I design and import "stuff" for cars and motorcycles. Some of those parts actually may find their way onto the Sonic. For example, the pictures below show the carbon mirrors, chrome button head screws and nice LED marker lights that could be used on the car.

You should see the silver LED lights when lit--the back portion of the "lens" is solid, which gives the whole signal a glow quality.

I don't quite know where to put the straight line of LED's. They simply mount at a right angle to an M6 socket head cap screw.

[Gage]

Cool stuff!

[cheapracer]

... says that some of the washer faces used in the crank assembly are diamond encrusted in order to prevent slippage.
.

Woo Hoo, I have to buy a wedding ring for the Missus, that should be cheap - thanks Cord!! :thumb2:

[cordycord]

in. out. in. out. in.

Okay, after you get your minds out of the gutter :), the engine has hopefully gone into the chassis for the last time. Recent work--

--install limited slip differential
--install new throw out bearing and arm (Mazda sells together only)
--install ACT clutch and Miata lightweight flywheel
--install transmission onto the engine
--install engine in the frame

As mentioned before, the five speed Mazda3 transmission seems like it's 45 lbs lighter than the Speed3 six speed model, and the ACT clutch and flywheel combo have probably dropped at least 10 lbs of rotating mass. The stock Speed3 flywheel is massive and has some sort of built-in vibration damper than nobody likes.

I used the shaft from a broken transmission to install the clutch and flywheel. It held everything in place nicely, and then I removed it when the transmission was fitted. The shaft kept everything straight, and installing the transmission was a non-event.

The last picture shows the tools needed to set the timing on the cams, which was required when we removed the crank pulley.

[cordycord]

I got a couple of hours in plumbing today--water and brake. The inlet for the water is a bit close to the frame so a shorter one from a Miata (I think) was swapped. That works, but now part of the alternator bracket (seen below the water intake) needs to be whittled away to make room.

The brakes are coming along--at least now we have a game plan for routing. While the bleeder banjo bolts aren't supposed to be necessary, a) I don't have standard banjos and b) they can't hurt.

Last, you'll notice some blue silicone hoses here and there. Checking online, they aren't significantly more expensive than rubber, seem easier to find and match the silicone color already on the intercooler--sorta.

Edit--this car has secondary water routing to the turbo and around the oil filter that still need to be addressed. I'm pretty sure the water that goes around the oil filter acts as a liquid to liquid heater/cooler. When the car starts, the water has a short circuit that warms up the engine oil quickly. Once the operating temperature has been reached (probably around 160-180F) a valve gradually opens the water to the radiator. The engine comes up to operating temperature quickly, and then stays at the optimum temperature. I'm "ass"uming that most new engines have this as well.

[cordycord]

Work continues--ish. I'm still getting caught up from my 10 day trip of a week ago, and Tony actually did something he hates--he worked on fiberglass. :thumbdown2:

We've made another decision that will slow down the build--we're going to finish the entire car--sans body--and drive it around prior to putting the bodywork on. This is a "just in case" maneuver, as everything's easier to reach without bodywork in the way...

--The intercooler is getting a custom box
--big fat 3" exhaust departs from the center of the car
--The hole for the intercooler will replace that fancy tape
--The rollbar attaches to the back of the frame, needed for safety and the extra horsepower
--The top "scoop" area will be simply become a big engine vent. Screening will cover the opening.
--Notice the air filter peeking out of the wheel opening. That area will be cordoned off from the hot engine air.

[pook]

Looking good!!!
Is it cooperating or fighting?
PooK

[Gage]

I agree. Good progress!

[cordycord]

Looking good!!!
Is it cooperating or fighting?
PooK

Let's be honest--Tony is taking up the slack while I catch up with work, so I guess it's pretty damn easy on my part. :D

Otherwise, we seem to still be in re-engineering mode. It seems like re-engineering is hardest, engineering is hard, and modding ain't too tough.

[cordycord]

The bodywork comes off next week so we can start working on electrical and finishing up plumbing. The big hurdles ahead include getting the ECU to work, fuel pump, and cables.

--Here's a closer look of the gaping hole we left over the engine. We'll fill it up with something--screen, louvers, or...?
--The intercooler tube sits above the bodywork. We call this a PITA, or Pain In The A**.
--The cutouts for the rollbar are fugly. They're not really adding to the aesthetics at this point, but they're necessary for this car.
--Tony fabricated an aluminum air box for the intercooler to feed cold air from the inlet, and now we just need to make a proper inlet scoop.

[Nigel]

Watching with great interest, keep up the good work, soon be finished:thumb2:

nigel

[cordycord]

Watching with great interest, keep up the good work, soon be finished:thumb2:
nigel

Thanks Nigel! I'm finding that having the car almost an hour away at the AWR shop hampers the small improvements quite a bit, as even when I get down there I can only commit 3-6 hours to it at a time. A car at home with an open garage fully stocked with tools is key.

The front suspension went back on, along with the hubs and rotors. Brake lines will be measured next visit. I need to find a way to separate the actual work on the car from the "wandering around with my hand on my chin, in thinking mode."

The inlet for the intercooler is still definitely a work in progress.

Stuart sent the correct quick rack for assembly. The rack and pinion have been installed and greased. The pinion just needs a circlip and to be buttoned up. I still need to find some rubber boots for the ends.

Remember--this all comes off for bodywork, on for fitment, off for body painting and then on ONE MORE TIME for the final car. Lets see how many more scratches I can administer...:thumbdown2:

[B-T]

I think this is looking really good Cord! You must be pretty proud of it. Keep on pushing, you are almost to the finish line.
:)
BT

[cordycord]

I was hunting through the Sonic boxes this weekend and came upon the MEV-supplied side markers, shown here. The funny thing is--I designed these marker lights at Lockhart Phillips USA over 10 years ago! :D

The shape is intended to be universal and to cover the standard hole left when a front motorcycle turn signal stalk is removed. The new signal is flush mounted and curves with the bodywork.

The real difference to the design was the long threaded bulb mount. It allows the standard bulb to have a low profile while a giant plastic nut/washer combo holds everything in place. This was before the advent of LED's.

I'm happy to see that they're still in use. :thumb2:

[golftdibrad]

that is pretty cool man.

[B-T]

I was hunting through the Sonic boxes this weekend and came upon the MEV-supplied side markers, shown here. The funny thing is--I designed these marker lights at Lockhart Phillips USA over 10 years ago! :D

The shape is intended to be universal and to cover the standard hole left when a front motorcycle turn signal stalk is removed. The new signal is flush mounted and curves with the bodywork.

The real difference to the design was the long threaded bulb mount. It allows the standard bulb to have a low profile while a giant plastic nut/washer combo holds everything in place. This was before the advent of LED's.

I'm happy to see that they're still in use. :thumb2:

I think that is the same side marker that is used on my Ginetta. Nice!
BT

[cordycord]

I think that is the same side marker that is used on my Ginetta. Nice!
BT

Let's see some pictures!!! You may not know this, but I believe that Ginetta is now manufacturing the Sonic frame under contract, which I think is a smart move by Stuart.

[cordycord]

I had to show the successor to the Flush Mount IV, which is appropriately called the "Meteor". Same idea, different styling...

[cordycord]

I went down to work on the car today and ended up on the phone most of the time. That's just the way it goes sometimes.

The circlip for the steering pinion was installed, as was the complete steering rack. Big thanks to Nigel for confirming the circlip and installation.:thumb2:

Front brake hard lines were run. Having done it, I probably should have run them up at the top of the firewall, but oh well. They'll still work....I hope.

Next I go hunting for new steering boot and ball joint boots for the front ball joints as they're already cracking. Damn, my first vehicle maintenance and I'm not even done!

BTW, that's not a beautiful metal-flake paint job, it's just dust. :D

[cordycord]

The brakes are getting a bit closer. Boy it would be nice to just walk down to the garage and work on this car, instead of taking a 45 minute drive...

The front flex line went on. 22" perhaps should have been 20", but I'm not changing anything until the bodywork goes on for final fitting.

The rear hard line going to the right wheel still needs to be flared and put in place. I bought a do-it-yourself-er flare kit that's not nearly the quality needed to press out the stainless lines. Crap.

[cordycord]

Believe it or not, we still don't have a handle on the ECU. It may or may not work. I know a Motec unit will work, which is my back-up plan. However, I can't figure out which kid I'm going to sell in order to pay for the unit. :(

So in keeping with my low-digit solution to wiring, I've come up with a brilliant plan for a fuse box. Okay, maybe it's the stupidest thing you've ever seen--maybe I should start a poll. :D

I'm considering using a marine radio cover as the fuse box top, and fabricating a bottom enclosure. Crazy, or crazy like a fox? When I see the beautiful 100% waterproof fuse box on the LC470 (last picture), I think that my choice might be a bit "back yard". Thoughts?

[cordycord]

This picture is the rat's nest that will become the neural network of the Sonic...

[golftdibrad]

Believe it or not, we still don't have a handle on the ECU. It may or may not work. I know a Motec unit will work, which is my back-up plan. However, I can't figure out which kid I'm going to sell in order to pay for the unit. :(

So in keeping with my low-digit solution to wiring, I've come up with a brilliant plan for a fuse box. Okay, maybe it's the stupidest thing you've ever seen--maybe I should start a poll. :D

I'm considering using a marine radio cover as the fuse box top, and fabricating a bottom enclosure. Crazy, or crazy like a fox? When I see the beautiful 100% waterproof fuse box on the LC470 (last picture), I think that my choice might be a bit "back yard". Thoughts?

good work!

those marine radio enclosures dont work worth a damn.

[B-T]

I would say to ditch the marine radio cover. It is really not watertight. I am going to find something that will work on the car Pook is making, and the same item could be used for your situation. I have an idea, and now that I am back from Europe I should be able to track down a source in the next few days. Overall, your car is looking very good, keep up the effort!
:)
BT

[cordycord]

I would say to ditch the marine radio cover. It is really not watertight. I am going to find something that will work on the car Pook is making, and the same item could be used for your situation. I have an idea, and now that I am back from Europe I should be able to track down a source in the next few days. Overall, your car is looking very good, keep up the effort!
:)
BT

Let me know Bill--I've spent far too long trying to figure out where to put this damn fuse box!

[cordycord]

As the electronics are starting, I decided to pick up a Vapor "powersports computer" from www.trailtech.net. It includes air or oil temp (one only), a back light, LED shift lights, hour meter, odometer, speedometer and a really cool bar graph rpm.

I was pleasantly surprised at the initial quality and the included items. The helpful salesperson also made sure I had extensions for the speedometer, temp sensor, etceteras. The price is also a pleasant surprise--something of a rarity with this car. :D

Physically it is small, but this unit should cover the requirements that aren't already handled by the dash panel supplied by MEV.

[golftdibrad]

As the electronics are starting, I decided to pick up a Vapor "powersports computer" from www.trailtech.net. It includes air or oil temp (one only), a back light, LED shift lights, hour meter, odometer, speedometer and a really cool bar graph rpm.

I was pleasantly surprised at the initial quality and the included items. The helpful salesperson also made sure I had extensions for the speedometer, temp sensor, etceteras. The price is also a pleasant surprise--something of a rarity with this car. :D

Physically it is small, but this unit should cover the requirements that aren't already handled by the dash panel supplied by MEV.

Cant wait to see what you think, I'm looking at the same unit for my car.

[B-T]

Here is a decent marine fuse holder fr not too much money:
http://www.cabelas.com/p-0054983019671a.shtml
If you need a large enclosure for an existing fuse panel that is not weatherproof I would recommend trying something like this:
http://www.thewaterproofstore.com/witzlocker2.html
or this:
http://www.casesbysource.com/product/otter-2500-waterproof-case-foam-lined-yellow-oc-2500-y
They have a large selection, just use some grommets with silicone to seal the wires after you dril a few holes to pass them through the wall of the case.
This one is nice, 7"x5"x3"h. for around $16...
http://www.casesbysource.com/product/seahorse-120-waterproof-case-se-120nf-b
BT

[pook]

Hey Cord,
I was wondering if you plan to put the ECU in a box?
PooK

[cordycord]

Hey Cord,
I was wondering if you plan to put the ECU in a box?
PooK

In a box?! I have trouble finding it in among the OEM wiring spaghetti! The ECU will probably hang out in a small sectioned area behind the passenger seat on the fire wall. I'll probably bend up a four-sided aluminum box that mounts with 1/4 turn fasteners. Not exactly waterproof, but "half-ass" seems to be my middle name these days.

Bill--thanks for the box links. I got a Pelican similar to the ones you noted, but I'm still not convinced. MEV actually did a nice job assembling a pre-wired fuse panel, but my view is that it needs dust/moisture/water protection. I'm sure I'm not alone in this department. The box that I found that I like the most is actually a pencil box--go figure--but damned if I'm going to fit a pink pencil box in my car! :D

[golftdibrad]

yea.... my approach to weatherproofing is, "dont drive in the wet"

[pook]

Just wondering, some Ecu's are made to be outside, they usually have a heat sink cast on them somewhere, and some are made to be inside. ALL of them have the drivers (not the software type but the hardware type) that run the coil/coils and injectors and generate a ton of heat. I wouldn't completely seal the box with the ECU or relays, It would be like taping the vent holes on your lap top shut.
What about Tupperware? screw the lid to the fire wall, screw the electrics to it in the middle and just pop the bottom over the whole thing (just leave some holes in the bottom for vents)??
PooK

[Gakes]

Hey Cord, I see you like the Vapor so far. Its a great little unit that is well worth its price. I've looked at many units and none of them packed all those features for such a low price.

BTW, this is the most informative and thorough build I've read so far. Looking great buddy, keep it up:thumb2:

[cordycord]

Just wondering, some Ecu's are made to be outside, they usually have a heat sink cast on them somewhere, and some are made to be inside. ALL of them have the drivers (not the software type but the hardware type) that run the coil/coils and injectors and generate a ton of heat. I wouldn't completely seal the box with the ECU or relays, It would be like taping the vent holes on your lap top shut.
What about Tupperware? screw the lid to the fire wall, screw the electrics to it in the middle and just pop the bottom over the whole thing (just leave some holes in the bottom for vents)??
PooK

The Vapor's main target market are off-road motorcycles and side by side (Yamaha Rhino) vehicles. They're made for rough use, dirt, moisture, etceteras. I believe that they're more than up to the task of exocar use.

As for the fuse box, the Sonic build sheet shows an exposed fuse box sitting directly below the drip rail of the hood. On the other side of the spectrum, the LC470 fuse box is triple sealed against moisture and could be dunked under water without consequence. I want protection from dust and moisture, dissipation of heat from relays and something that looks like it "belongs". Gritting my teeth and mounting Tupperware is not in cards, although the marine radio cover is still in the hunt.

BTW, thanks for the compliment Gakes! :thumb2:

[pook]

Oh so its visible, I was on the Tupperware thing because the 911's use to have the ecu under the driver seat and the cars leaked like a spaghetti strainer and that was their solution.
PooK

[cordycord]

Oh so its visible, I was on the Tupperware thing because the 911's use to have the ecu under the driver seat and the cars leaked like a spaghetti strainer and that was their solution.
PooK

Can you imagine--opening up the hood to see a tupperware container and a Coleman cool-shirt cooler?! This would truly be a back-yard build then. :D

[cordycord]

The next trip I'm taking ain't for work, so I'm looking forward to it. Business is busy-work, so the car is sitting mostly idle. Here's a couple shots of the rear suspension. The brakes (hard lines & flex) are mainly done, and we may have an ECU guru (ex-Cosworth) who can set up the stock ECU to do what we want. Woohoo!:awais::awais:

Until then, hello Cabo! :thumb2:

[cordycord]

It's more than enough to be married to my lovely wife Kristin for 10 years, but we also decided to celebrate in the beautiful town of Cabo San Lucas, overlooking "Land's End".

Oh, and she decided to get me the equivalent of a Sonic 7--for my wrist. :D If you look closely you can see my latest safety wiring scratch.

Life is good. :thumb2:

[B-T]

Nice! My wife got me the Yachtmaster as an inside joke about 5 years ago. I had bought a deck boat (certainly no yacht), and the watch cost about the same as the boat. Enjoy Cabo.
:)
BT

[Nigel]

Come on Cord thought you'd have it finished by now. :D

I see your planning on using the Vapor dash and MEV E-dash, but retaining the standard Mazda ECU.

Have to confess that with what I now know, I would recommend that you look into fitting the standard Mazda clocks in some kind of pod. While both the Vapor dash and MEV E-dash are perfectly adequate for the job, they do look a little tinny / inadequate in a car like the Sonic. Fitting the original dash has been one of the best things that I’ve done and has been so well received by the general public that MEV now offer as an option a fiberglass dash pod to fit the Focus dials.

Keep posting

nigel

[cordycord]

Come on Cord thought you'd have it finished by now. :D

I see your planning on using the Vapor dash and MEV E-dash, but retaining the standard Mazda ECU.

Have to confess that with what I now know, I would recommend that you look into fitting the standard Mazda clocks in some kind of pod. While both the Vapor dash and MEV E-dash are perfectly adequate for the job, they do look a little tinny / inadequate in a car like the Sonic. Fitting the original dash has been one of the best things that I’ve done and has been so well received by the general public that MEV now offer as an option a fiberglass dash pod to fit the Focus dials.

Keep posting

nigel

Hi Nigel,

I looked at the Mazda clocks and they are simply monstrous compared to the Ford units. It would be the equivalent of putting a fruit basket on the dash. :thumbdown2:

We'll see how the Vaypor goes--the utilitarian in me says the needed data should be handy between the Vaypor and the MEV-supplied board, and will be quite of a weight saver.

As you mentioned, I need to finish this turd before making more changes, and then see how she twirls before buying her more baubles and bits, or replacing what's already been bought.

[Gage]

Have to confess that with what I now know, I would recommend that you look into fitting the standard Mazda clocks in some kind of pod.

nigel


Do you have a good picture or two?

[cordycord]

Do you have a good picture or two?

I "visited" my car today--wasn't much of a work session--and snapped a picture of the stock Mazda gauges on top of the dash panel. They could be moved down and back, but the simplicity of the Vaypor unit is swaying my decision.

Tony added a couple of nice "V" brackets to the rear uprights. This extra dimension in addition to the strength of the 4130 plate should prevent upright flex.

[cordycord]

I got a little more time with the car today--just driving there is 45 minutes, so one of my lessons learned is that a build goes much faster in your own garage. :)

1) Brake Mistake--hopefully you can see what I did wrong and learn from it. I installed the hanging Wilwood pedal with bolts that go from the top down, and didn't think much more about it. As you can see from the pictures, one of the mounting bolts interferes with the adjuster bolt. Left unchecked, the nut would have either have interfered with the brake lever or backed out completely (if not pinned). I'll be running a button head screw from the bottom up.

2) Hand brake solution--Here's the new hand brake braket. It's out of the way, and a short cable will route to the left rear caliper to mechanically capture the brake pads. I don't intend to have a separate "e" brake caliper.

3) Prodrive 18" wheel--Looks nice, but won't fit on the front because of the interference with the Wilwood hub and the center I.D. of the rim. So with wheels we're looking at backspacing, caliper clearance, hub clearance (hub-centric too?), and eventually fender clearance. Fun.

4) Mega Miata--here's a back shot of one of the shop Miata cars at AWR. It's got a new dual-plane wing and a very functional rear diffuser. FUN and FAST.

[cordycord]

Somehow a lot of the tough stuff was left for last. :)

Tony fabricated a coolant header tank that sits above the motor. It prevents any coolant starvation within the engine.

The gas tank was cut underneath for shifter cable routing, and the vent, send and return lines were started. We have a high pressure fuel pump at the rail (direct injection, actually), but will need to add a primer pump in the tank. The tank will also eventually get its own bulkhead; I like the idea of more than a single wall separating me from combustible liquid.

Gauges--apparently the stock gauges are computers unto themselves. The stock ECU can be reflashed, but needs to communicate with the stock gauges as well. I could hide them somewhere, or just use them...

Front adjustable body supports for the hood are made and waiting. The flat top will mount a nice Panex quick-turn receiver.

Finally, the brake reservoirs have been placed--but will need to be moved to accommodate the larger stock gauges. An access hatch above the dash will allow topping off of brake fluid.

[Gage]

It looks great. I'm glad you've stuck with it.

[B-T]

It looks great to me. I just personally don't have any fab skills. I could not have gotten this far doing all that customization. I guess the obvious question to me is: Did you plan on doing major modifications to the kit, or was this just a journey of discovery and reaction? On the TR-42 I know people will be using Subaru drivetrains, but to me the simplicity of the weaker Porsche Type 4 is more important.
Keep going Cord, I think you are almost done!!!
:thumb2:
BT

[golftdibrad]

commin along cord!

[cordycord]

It looks great to me. I just personally don't have any fab skills. I could not have gotten this far doing all that customization. I guess the obvious question to me is: Did you plan on doing major modifications to the kit, or was this just a journey of discovery and reaction? On the TR-42 I know people will be using Subaru drivetrains, but to me the simplicity of the weaker Porsche Type 4 is more important.
Keep going Cord, I think you are almost done!!!
:thumb2:
BT

Bill, I've got limited fab skills as well. I do know HOW things are supposed to be made, and if I don't have the skills or the tools to do it correctly, the job gets done by the right person--not me. The Porsche engine/trans package for Matrix is enticing, and will probably be an important factor in your success--smart choice. This project is much less "kit" than I expected, but will also be a phenomenal "no excuses" car when complete. I'm glad I'm sticking with it.

[cordycord]

The wheels have been chosen. The Enkei RPF01 is one of the lightest wheels available--bar none--and has a wide assortment of backspacing and widths. I've seen lots of wheels that look good, but they usually end up weighing 5-10lbs per wheel more than the Enkei's, and/or have wheel widths that stop at 8.5".

I'm looking at running 8.5" fronts and up to 10" rear rims. With a guesstimate of 315hp, 400ft/lbs torque and 1,400lbs, I'll need all the tire I can get.

[pook]

That will be a ROCKET!!!!
looks great Cord!
PooK

[B-T]

The wheels have been chosen. The Enkei RPF01 is one of the lightest wheels available--bar none--and has a wide assortment of backspacing and widths. I've seen lots of wheels that look good, but they usually end up weighing 5-10lbs per wheel more than the Enkei's, and/or have wheel widths that stop at 8.5".

I'm looking at running 8.5" fronts and up to 10" rear rims. With a guesstimate of 315hp, 400ft/lbs torque and 1,400lbs, I'll need all the tire I can get.

WOW! This thing is going to be incredibly fast. I like your choice of wheels. I also like the fact that you are not taking shortcuts on the build. Can't wait to hear your impressions after driving it.
We are all cheering for you, I'm glad you stuck with it also!!!
:thumb2:
:thumb2:
:thumb2:
BT

[cordycord]

That will be a ROCKET!!!!
looks great Cord!
PooK

Thanks Danny. If I had your skillz I'd be done by now. :D

[pook]

Looks to me like you do! besides building a custom car is like remodeling a house..."Your never really done just close enough to have your buddies over"
PooK

[cordycord]

You're right Danny--cars never really are finished. Even if they are, maintenance kicks in. For those interested, the Enkei RPF1 weights are as follows:

17 x 8.5 16lbs
17 x 10 17lbs

For reference, 17 x 7's are 14.6lbs. I'm working with Brian Goodwin of www.good-winracing.com for the wheels. He's a Miata specialist and has also recommended the Falken Azenis RT-615 as a great tire to start with on the car.

[Ligero]

recommended the Falken Azenis RT-615 as a great tire to start with on the car.

The RT-615 is old tech when it comes to ultra performance tires, the new 615K is better but still just midpack. The Dunlop Star specs, Toyo R1R, Kuhmo XS and Hankook RS3 will all out perform the 615's and either are the same price or not much more per tire.

[golftdibrad]

The RT-615 is old tech when it comes to ultra performance tires, the new 615K is better but still just midpack. The Dunlop Star specs, Toyo R1R, Kuhmo XS and Hankook RS3 will all out perform the 615's and either are the same price or not much more per tire.

Dont know if its been brought up in this thread yet, but alot of the serious locost and se7en guys run RA1's and other DOT race tires on the street. The atom comes with yokohama dot r's as an option. For the low time spent driving and 'fair weather' nature of these cars, it makes sense.

[B-T]

I say the tire choice depends entirely on the type of driving you plan and your local weather. I have the RT615 on my Ginetta, but the few times I have been caught in the rain with them have been near-death experiences. I went with the Hankook V12 Ventus Evo K110 for the TR-42 which are no good in cold weather but are suppoosedly much better in the rain. For your use as almost exclusively track driving and no wet weather, I would go for the Hankook RS-3 or some DOT R compound like the Toyo R888. I really liked my Azenis when I first got them about two years ago, but I have read that they are not that great compared to other tires these days (mostly from people on this board).
It is looking GREAT, keep it up (that's what she said)!
:D
BT

[golftdibrad]

I say the tire choice depends entirely on the type of driving you plan and your local weather.
BT

This.

Its just important to remind/educate those not in the know that dot r's are an option for these light cars.

[cordycord]

This is all great information. With luck, this Sonic will never see rain. It will probably bend a few cones and do a track day as well, but will also be a fun car to take my 5 year old to pre-school in the morning. The 615's were said to be consistent, forgiving tires, and Brian didn't advertise them as the best. The first set that gets put on the car may end up with overspray, and will be used during suspension setup. I certainly don't want a super-gummy set that need to be bagged while they sit in my garage to keep them from drying out.

[B-T]

I think the Azenis are wear rated at around 160 or 180, so they are pretty soft. After two years I have not noticed any hardening, and with about 4,000 miles they are just about worn out. they are definitely soft, but the flat spots (from sitting for a month or more) usually even out and run smooth after about 5 miles in my experience. The best place to buy the Azenis is www.vulcantire.com these days, too bad edgeracing.com went out of business.
:)
BT

[cordycord]

The waterproof radio cover we used for a fuse cover had a really good chance of looking goofy, but John at AWR (shown seated in car) placed it in a really nice electric panel. A small kick-plate will go over the panel with quarter turn fasteners, just so the fuses don't get bumped accidentally.

The Sparco seats came out--add that to another list of re-done items--and were replaced by the original MEV units. We're bracing the base mounts and through-bolting them through the fiberglass to make them stronger. The new seat brackets are not adjustable, but the entire seat has dropped over two very important inches. Those two inches also mean that I can't use the stock gauges over the steering wheel, unless I want to drive using a periscope to see.

The test wheels are getting some low temp powder coating, and the Falken Azenis are waiting patiently to be mounted. Amazingly, the 18x8.5 Prodrive rims weighed in at only 18lbs. We'll start out with this setup, and then determine the optimum width and offset later.

[cordycord]

Put succinctly, Rally Design had a problem and they fixed it. Apparently a couple of the steering arms they include with their very nice Cortina geometry front uprights--how do I put this delicately--did not tolerate well the abuses of track and English "b" roads. They've replaced the weak part with a nice forged unit and sent replacements out to those that need them.

Well, Rally Design didn't send them all the way to the U.S. As Americans are in the habit of "lawyering up" at the first sign of trouble, RD doesn't sell product here. Stuart at MEV followed through and sent the replacement parts--THANKS Stuart. It's nice to see follow-on service, and a part fix from Rally Design.

The gold unit are the current welded parts--can you imagine the leverage at full tilt boogie on that weld? :D

The black unit is the new forged unit--much more stout.

The complete upright is actually pretty nice. I don't know if it's an original design or patterned off something else, but it looks like it will do the job on the Sonic.

[golftdibrad]

Put succinctly, Rally Design had a problem and they fixed it. Apparently a couple of the steering arms they include with their very nice Cortina geometry front uprights--how do I put this delicately--did not tolerate well the abuses of track and English "b" roads. They've replaced the weak part with a nice forged unit and sent replacements out to those that need them.



forged or billet is always better, but those welds look like crap! the min cross sectional area is at the weld and that is way a bad thing. I bet they would be just fine if they had proper welds.

[cordycord]

forged or billet is always better, but those welds look like crap! the min cross sectional area is at the weld and that is way a bad thing. I bet they would be just fine if they had proper welds.

It could be the welds or it could be the metal (or both), but one thing's for sure--I don't want to find out if the weld's strong "enough".

[pook]

Where you gonna move the cluster to? or are you going to change it?
It's Looking very cool Cord...looks like it will be "well sorted":thumb2:

golftdibrad is right, what he talking about is the ridge line or "under cut". I'm glad you've got the forged pieces now!

[cordycord]

Where you gonna move the cluster to? or are you going to change it?
It's Looking very cool Cord...looks like it will be "well sorted":thumb2:

golftdibrad is right, what he talking about is the ridge line or "under cut". I'm glad you've got the forged pieces now!

The actual Mazda gauge cluster is only needed for the chips on it. I've thinned it down so it can reside next to the ECU, hidden behind the dash or wherever is convenient. The Vaypor will go above the steering column.

Truth be told, I contacted Rally Design about the steering arms before they contacted me. That weld ain't right, and I'd like to think that they would not have shipped the part had they seen it.

[pook]

Thats right I forgot about the Vaypor gauge. sorry, Cool!
PooK

[cordycord]

Work on a new product has kept me away from the Sonic lately. It's got applications for cars, so hopefully I can install it on the Sonic once the damn thing gets rolling.

Tony at AWR is also full-bore on a couple of SEMA show cars. I guess when the OEM's come calling, you need to drop the small stuff and work on the BIG company cars...

[Nigel]

Work on a new product has kept me away from the Sonic lately. It's got applications for cars, so hopefully I can install it on the Sonic once the damn thing gets rolling.

Tony at AWR is also full-bore on a couple of SEMA show cars. I guess when the OEM's come calling, you need to drop the small stuff and work on the BIG company cars...

Hi Cord,

I know your busy but I was hoping to see a little progress update on either the Sonic or the other car your doing (Gakes) ? :thumb2:

nigel

[cordycord]

Hi Cord,

I know your busy but I was hoping to see a little progress update on either the Sonic or the other car your doing (Gakes) ? :thumb2:

nigel

You and me both, Nigel. :) My time has been taken up with work lately, traveling to see customers and life in general. The whole family has had a low-grade cold for the past two weeks. Damn!

I made a conscious decision NOT to work on Gakes car until the Sonic is done. It might not be the right decision, but I only have so much time. Both cars are now about 50 minutes away from my house--I wouldn't recommend this to ANYONE, as I could have nibbled out quite a few bits if the cars were in my garage.

As for updates:

a) The lower rear a-arms were adjusted AGAIN. 1st to add camber adjustment, second to switch from bushing to 100% 1/2" Rose joint (Heim joint), and now they've been lengthened slightly so to allow for the length of the Mazda3 half shaft, and also to normalize the track, front to rear.

b) The ECU was sent out to a secret location and re-flashed (for a small fortune) so that it will not throw CEL faults or default to limp-home mode. Wiring continues, but isn't yet finished. This was a BIG hurdle, but it seems like we won't have to break any new ground in regards to the rest of the electronics.

c) The brake and clutch lines all have fluid, and all leaks have been detected. Bleeding awaits.

d) The water lines are holding water. There were a couple of pinhole leaks in the custom radiator that have been addressed. It's all good.

e) Seats--the neat Sparco seats with adjustable rails had two unintended consequences--making it seem as if I were riding on top of the car, and causing possible steering wheel interference with my legs. The MEV seats had support brackets added to the base, and will get some further bolstering when at DG Motorsports. The new seating brackets push the bottom of the seat to within 1/2" of the floor, while taking away adjustments.

f) A custom brake cable was fabricated and awaits installation. I was quite impressed by the emergency brake solution on the Warner R4. In fact, I'm impressed with the entire car. I'm going to try something like his e-brake solution:

http://www.wr4.co.uk/#/content/2_build/90.jpg/

g) The shift cable linkage has proved to be another learning lesson. While there are many possible solutions, we're attempting a "Rube Goldberg" solution. :) The cables did not have the length to route correctly, so Tony is setting up a linkage extension that should give us positive actuation and the correct pattern.

h) More to do's--The gas pedal will probably be exchanged for a stock Speed3 unit, as we need to use the "drive by wire" system with the ECU. An external fuel pump needs to be plumbed up to the high-pressure pump at the engine. This is a direct injection engine, so "Mega-Squirt" or "AEM" were not options.

While all of the above stuff denotes progress, it's pretty clear that this car would be driving around San Diego if it had been build from a Focus donor. That said, I really do like the challenge of the build. This damn car is getting done--and done right.

...After seeing this list, it seems like I'll need to add a few pictures. Next week...

[Nigel]

Thanks for the update, one car at a time is always best, I look forward to the pictures. :thumb2:

nigel

[cordycord]

The Sonic has been somewhat ignored lately, between work requirements and a two week vacation in Puerto Vallarta, the car still sits.

...but at least now it's sitting on the ground! Good news for me. It really does take on a new proportion when it's off the work box. Even on the wheel dollys, the car seats are lower than a spec Miata and the wheelbase and track are also visibly longer and wider. Good.

Hate to keep harping on it, but if this car was in my garage, I could have done the work I did today in a 1/2 hour--driving to Tony's garage is a pain in the butt. However, Tony has managed to make progress while I was gone. He has a solution for the shifter cables, using the stock Mazda 3 set along with an extension set. I'll devote one post to the pictures and explanation when everything gets installed, as it really is pretty trick.

The external fuel filter and pump has also been fabricated and powder coated, and now need to be plumbed.

Finally, we put the car up on scales: 1,254 lbs so far, so a sub-1,5000lb with all the parts and bodywork is realistic. At over 300hp estimated, that will be a 1hp : 5lb ratio. :D The nicest part--prior to corner balancing, the front is within 1 pound and the rear within 10 pounds of each side when I'm sitting in the vehicle. Nice.

[B-T]

I don't know if I am allowed to post here. The car is looking really good! Stick with it, soon you will be on the road. Feel free to delete this post if it is offensive.
:)
BT

[Nigel]

I thought I was the only person who had his posts deleted "pain"

Anyway your pride and joy SONIC7 is looking 'really good' Cord. :clap: I for one would love to see some more detailed pictures before you fit the body. Any chance you could push or drive the car out side and walk round taking pictures from various angles so that we can truly appreciate the detail of the build.

A loyal fellow Sonic7 Builder :)

nigel

[pook]

OHHH thats gonna be FAST:thumb2:
Looking Great Cord!!
As for Bill and Nigel, If I were you Cord I would just toss em....LMAO!

PooK

[cordycord]

Danny--In the words of the esteemed Rodney King, "Can't we all just get along?" :D:D:D

Anyone is welcome to bash or praise my car--except maybe Cheapracer. :)

Nigel, Let me know what parts you want shot, and I'll do my best.

[Nigel]

Danny--In the words of the esteemed Rodney King, "Can't we all just get along?" :D:D:D

Anyone is welcome to bash or praise my car--except maybe Cheapracer. :)

Nigel, Let me know what parts you want shot, and I'll do my best.

OK, OK I did as you suggested and ignored the cone shaped windy plonkers digs, and accepted the website owners decision to refuse me recourse to challenge. I’ll stop there or I’ll get myself angry and into trouble again. :chill:

As for Cheapracer any one heard from him lately ? or know how his project is coming along ? :poke:

I’m very interested in both detail as well as the overall build balance. It’s pretty fixed as to where the components site but I find it interesting to see different builders solutions on how to connect / route ie gear linkage, wiring, pipe runs etc. Intrigued to see how you’ve run the turbo installation, induction exhaust piping, got to be tight with a lot of heat to shift.

I have to say I’m very impressed with your corner weighting, I was about 20/30kgs out on the rear from memory but like you got the front nearly spot on. OK I’m 100kg’s so that doesn’t help.

Are you planning on doing any shake down testing prior to fitting the body work ? I think it would be well worthwhile. Cars a lot easier to work on and it will also give you a great boost to finish the car having got behind the wheel.

Remember pictures worth a 1000 words so just get the camera out and get posting. :thumb2:

nigel

[cordycord]

Per Nigel's request, I took a quick spin around the Sonic yesterday and took photos. Not pretty photography, but representative of the custom work that's gone into finishing the car. Note--most of these parts have been shown during the course of the posts. Here are just a few of the custom parts:

PIC 1:
Rear uprights--4130, brake mount for Wilwood 4 piston setup.
Rear lower a-arms--moved shock mount, added toe capability, added heim joint inner adjustable mounts.
Rear shock--lopped off .25" at the mounting hole for a more vertical non-binding fit.

PIC 2:
Radiator fluid reservoir--set above the height of the water in the engine, for overflow and to ensure proper system coolant at all times.

PIC 3:
Brake mount--I would have done this different, but the picture shows the brake reservoir hoses being routed to the remote reservoirs higher on the frame. The webbing is actually a protective covering usually used over machined parts, and simply helps to route the hose. The radiator connection and some of the steering rod is also shown.

PIC 4:
Emergency brake--I decided to build this outside the frame for extra room, and to run a cable to the left rear brake pad. The pads will be mechanically actuated to make the e-brake.

PIC 5:
Coolant reservoir, firewall fittings. The fuel pump and filter will be external, and a secondary firewall will go over the tank and fittings.

PIC 6:
Belt adjuster. The steering pump and the A/C compressor are taken off the engine (free power). Plus, we've replaced the stock pulleys with cnc-machined hard anodized replacements. This picture shows the simple bracket to hold the belt tensioner pulley.

[cordycord]

Let's see, I still have some pictures left.

PIC 1:
Steering rack adjuster--converted to a Miata end link. The steering rod can be loosened and spun to set toe without removing anything.

PIC 2:
Speed3 drive-by-wire gas pedal. It's just easier. The pedal includes a sensor that connects directly to the ECU.

PIC 3:
Machined front brake caliper mount--We went with a larger Wilwood rotor and 6 piston caliper, held on with a custom machined caliper mount.

PIC 4:
Al. Hood bracket, electronics panel--The adjustable hood bracket will hold the quick release mechanism, and the kick panel houses and hides the wiring panel.

PIC 5:
Four point roll bar--This one ties into the rear of the car to increase safety and brace the whole back of the car.

PIC 6:
Brake/clutch reservoir bracket--these are now located right on the dash cross member. They are the required height, and will have their own access panel above the dash.

[cordycord]

Here's one more picture, showing the car finally on the ground. With nothing adjusted or sorted, it settled out with a little under four inches of ground clearance.

After having worked on this car on a cart for such a long time, it is AMAZING to see it on the ground. It is LOW. I walk over and put my hand DOWN on the roll bar. :D

The half shafts have a nice angle to them, as a perfectly straight half shaft will vibrate. It also shows that we've tried to drop the engine as much as is practical.

The engine mounts are all custom, and mount to the frame via more custom brackets. Any frame through-holes have a welded tube that connects each side of the frame.

As mentioned, the lower a-arms are now connected to the frame with 1/2" heim joints, adjustable for camber and toe.

The exhaust was fabricated by Tony from a straight-thru stainless muffler, made by Sebring Tuning. The turbo should hopefully keep the car quiet.

The Speed3 six speed transmission was replaced with a much smaller Mazda 3 MTX five speed tranny. We also added a limited slip differential, and replaced the stock flywheel and clutch for a lightweight Miata flywheel and four puck clutch. I can't guess how much rotating mass we've removed. GOBS.

[Nigel]

Excellent :clap: I found those photos most interesting.

Well it surely cant be that far off from being able to move under its own steam ? Disregarding fitting the body work when are you going to fire that engine up, bleed the brakes and take it for a drive :D (even if it is just around the parking lot)

Now I await a short video clip of you driving your creation. :king:

nigel

[Gage]

Great updates and pics!

[cordycord]

Excellent :clap: I found those photos most interesting.

Well it surely cant be that far off from being able to move under its own steam ? Disregarding fitting the body work when are you going to fire that engine up, bleed the brakes and take it for a drive :D (even if it is just around the parking lot)

Now I await a short video clip of you driving your creation. :king:

nigel

As it's December 5th, the car will move when it moves....
It's far past time to break any speed records with this build, so now is my chance to make any final tweaks or changes, and plan for the final fitments.

I'll bet Yogi Berra said that it takes 50% of the build time to finish the last 10% of the build. :D

We are definitely planning on getting the car fired up before taking it to Dave Green's for the body. We'll run it around the neighborhood, just like Tony did with the Benetton F1 when it was done. :clap:

[cordycord]

They've been shown prior, but I like the idea of showing all of the custom stuff that's been done to the car in my recent series of posts.

PIC 1: relocated battery box. I chose an Odyssey battery for light weight and compact size. The Optima is a great choice too, but is actually a little bigger. The battery was relocated to the passenger footwell, and acts somewhat to separate passenger and driver areas. The water outlet hose from the radiator is adjacent.

Notice also the neat aluminum wall/shroud between the foot box and the radiator area, and the new drive-by-wire throttle pedal.

PIC 2: Radiator. It's all-aluminum, re-shaped to avoid the steering shaft and includes rubber-cushioned mounts. John at AWR fabricated a custom fan shroud to pull the maximum air through the radiator.

If you can look past the spaghetti of wires surrounding the car, it's starting to look more complete...

[B-T]

Where does the radiator hot air go (into the passenger compartment, out some vents, etc...)???
All in all I love the build! Well done!
:thumb2:
BT

[cordycord]

Where does the radiator hot air go (into the passenger compartment, out some vents, etc...)???
All in all I love the build! Well done!
:thumb2:
BT

Good question Bill. There are a couple of side plates that fit next to the radiator to route the air up through an exit and over the wind screen. If this doesn't work or is too hot, the air can easily be routed around the bodywork to the back of the car.

The Sonic guys in England don't seem to comment about any hot air over the screen, but England isn't known for hot air, other than Stuart and Nigel. :)

[cordycord]

We had to move a few of the cars around Tony's shop, so I took a few pictures. The Miata in the pictures is one of Brian Goodwin's, has about 300 horsepower (naturally aspirated), and will be getting a big "boost" in horsepower soon. The bodywork is all carbon fiber including the doors, and weighs in at a bit over 2,000lbs. The Sonic will be lower, wider, have a longer wheelbase and will weigh about 500lbs less.

The white Miata in the background is getting prepped for life as a Miata Cup Car, and weighs about 1,600lbs in current form.

[thebionicman]

Looking great as a roller!

[Gage]

I agree. It looks good. I know you'll have fun with it.

[cordycord]

I agree. It looks good. I know you'll have fun with it.

Thanks Gage, it has been a great learning experience.

[pook]

You've either put the seat or the steering wheel on the wrong side Cord but other than that:thumb2::thumb2::thumb2:

PooK

[cordycord]

This car build has required decisions at every turn. Some are easy, like "Yes, I would like to add wheels and tires at all four corners." The shift linkage was a bit more tricky.

The decision for the cables came down to overcoming the following issues:

--Brackets and bracket orientation--did they face the right way and allow adjustment?
--Cable length and custom ends--were the cables routed directly, or around the transmission? Also, were there proper ends to hold the cable ends and cable housing?
--Maintaining proper shift pattern--Taking a front wheel drive setup and putting in it in back usually messes up the shift pattern. It can end up being the mirror opposite of what's needed.

Our solution was to first wrap the cables around the transmission, and have additional cables made to the length we needed. Tony then created what I call "The Reversinator", or two cable levers that reverse the throw of the incoming cable to counteract the effect of having a front wheel drive setup mounted in back.

1) PIC 1--this shows the cable routing from the shifter back to "The Reversinator". We used a stock Mazda 3 shift base and an aftermarket short throw shifter. The cables route under the gas tank. There are adjustments at the cable housing and at the threaded spherical bearing end.

2) PIC 2--A custom bracket is installed just aft of the firewall that connects the in-cabin cables with the stock cables. Cable length is also adjustable here. The cables wrap around the bottom of the transmission to the rear bracket.

3) PIC 3--The Reversinator--These are no-slop levers with brass bushing that reverse the motion of the cables for the correct shift pattern.

4) PIC 4--Rear bracket mount--This is a re-welded stock bracket so that it points in the proper direction.

I think that this solution has some merit, and can be a good option for other builds. For example, I like the idea of mounting both levers of "The Reversinator" on a single rotating axis (a fancy term for "bolt"), which would allow running the shift cables through a small space. Our Reversinator ended up on a flat plate as it seemed to give us more room for some of the other shenanigans we were doing in that area (fuel pump and filter, etc.).

We're dialing in the shifter now, and it's working well without a an engine load behind it. We'll see when it gets used in anger.:thumb2:

[andre555]

neat :thumb2:

[golftdibrad]

I really like this. I may steal it, just so your warned :D

[cordycord]

I really like this. I may steal it, just so your warned :D

I hope you do! It's posted so people can adapt their own version, or (of course) burn me for making a "Rube Goldberg" shift system. :D

[Nigel]

Any more progress ?

nigel

[cordycord]

The car is creeping towards completion, although some of the progress really isn't photo-worthy. For example, do you need a picture to show that we went through the car to make sure the fasteners are all tight?

The fuel lines are almost complete, with only some work still required at the fuel pump inlet at the engine. Once it's done and nickel plated, we'll have a complete fuel system.

Another not picture-worthy job was setting up the camber and caster on all four corners. The a-arms had to come off multiple times, but we've now got a good starting point: -1.1 degrees camber all around, and a slight 1/16th inch toe in at all four corners.

Tony has made two nice aluminum panels for the passenger side that collect the ECU and other electronics, and set the master kill switch. The rat's nest of past pictures is gone!

Last, new straps were made for the gas tank and a secondary firewall placed over the gas tank is next on the list.

[Nigel]

Nice :thumb2: keep chipping away at it, nearly at the end :D

nigel

[pook]

Cord, I cant wait to see you cruzin!!!
What are you starting with for caster?

PooK

[cordycord]

Cord, I cant wait to see you cruzin!!!
What are you starting with for caster?

PooK

Good question Danny. Caster's not adjustable, so I haven't bothered taking a measurement. :D

[pook]

Pre-set is good, One less thing to figure out!

PooK

[cordycord]

We finished another system yesterday. Like a lot of the others, it took some figuring out. I did not want to make a new bracket and set up a separate, big, clunky secondary mechanical caliper for the emergency brakes. Instead, I wanted to use the existing caliper with a simple e-brake that (hopefully) will satisfy the local authorities. Otherwise, the car will always stay in gear when parked, and we've already figured out a simple secondary hydraulic e-brake solution.

What we did:

a) The pads on our car are actually ground down at the bottom so that they grab the rotor at the right location. This is a reality of a custom build--not everything fits like OEM, and so cutting, grinding and fabricating are just facts of life. Only a really trained eye would see that the pads are closer to the center of the wheel.

b) A second set of safety pin holes was made. The safety pin now is lower, but still captures both pads through the standard top tab.

c) The normal safety pin hole was hogged out to accept the e-brake cable housing. It nests nicely with a light interference fit.

d) A stainless tab was fabricated that is also captured by the safety pin at one end. At the other end, a barrel cable connector holds the e-brake cable. When pulled, the tab pulls the brake pad against the rotor. Voila', "e-brake".

e) A light spring between the pads that disengages the e-brake may not even be necessary.

I saw something like this on the Warner R4 car, which I really like a lot, and decided to try it out.

[mazdalowandslow]

Very nice setup for the ebrake!

[cordycord]

Very nice setup for the ebrake!

Thanks. Let's hope that John Law agrees. :thumb2:

[pook]

Nice solution! I cant see them having a say in how it works as long as it works:thumb2:

PooK

[cordycord]

We put in the full e-brake today, and here are the pictures. It actually works as it's supposed to, and only some fine tuning is left. My favorite part is that this system is not only reversible, but it's about 100 times lighter than a secondary caliper setup. At least. :D

Other than the brake, we did some work on the shift cable bracket so that the shift throw from 1st to neutral and neutral to 2nd was the same. Done. The mass air flow sensor was plumbed into the air intake, and a template was made for the driver's side interior aluminum sheet.

I've started thinking about the interior as well. The aluminum floor will be covered, as much to protect the aluminum as for looks. I won't wrap material over the floor tubes, but will find some other material to cover them with as well.

On the negative side, I saw some old oil sitting in the turbo inlet today, and I'm not sure how it got there. It's possible that the engine was tipped at some point and the oil pooled there...dunno. I guess we'll find out when we try to fire it up.:awais:

[cordycord]

My dad has been helping with the car lately, and has focused on the interior panels. We decide on a general course of action for the aluminum plates, and he starts by making cardboard templates. John at AWR Racing then magically transforms the cardboard to aluminum.

The secondary firewall was created this way. It looks like a big aluminum lump, until the seats go in and the whole lump just disappears.

In the picture sequence you can see how John cut the aluminum to weaken it at the edges prior to bending. Our "press brake" was a steel angle iron clamped to the table. After the bend and successful weld, John re-welds the entire corner and then grinds the weld down until the whole box looks like it hasn't been welded at all.

My dad is pictured in the very, very low Sonic 7.

edit--note the picture of my dad in the car, and the side panel with some aluminum material that's parallel to and above the diagonal member of the frame. That will roll over and capture the frame member, and expose hand brake.

[cordycord]

I don't know if anyone's seen this, but Motor Trend posted a first drive of the KO7, along with some tasty pictures. :) It seems that the creativity and innovation of Ken Okuyama goes well beyond a beautiful design.

http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/convertibles/1010_ken_okuyama_ko7_roadster_drive/index.html

[Gage]

That car looks fantastic.

[jonathankoren]

looks like rebodied sonic 7. price tag makes sense if you knock of a zero.

[golftdibrad]

looks like rebodied sonic 7. price tag makes sense if you knock of a zero.

There was some discussion some time ago about who copied who. No sucjh thing as an origional idea anyway, we all have influences.

Cord, car is coming along GREAT. I think i might use this for my parking brake:
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=49&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=Sept_export#googlebase

[cordycord]

There was some discussion some time ago about who copied who. No sucjh thing as an origional idea anyway, we all have influences.

Cord, car is coming along GREAT. I think i might use this for my parking brake:
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=49&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=Sept_export#googlebase

Thanks Brad, we're getting close. The engine has turned over, but no spark yet. CLOSE.

I definitely like the hydraulic lock solution. I nearly purchased a similar "drift" solution that controlled the rear brakes via a hydraulic e-brake lever. However, I heard that hydraulic emergency brakes are not legal in CA, as the pressure bleeds off eventually.

As for the KO7, I think it's a fabulous car and a great inspiration for the Sonic 7. That Stuart was able to knock as many zeros off the price tag just means kudos to him. Ken Okuyama has opened a studio just 45 minutes from here, and I was thinking of making a trip there. Dunno if I'd be received with open arms or a shotgun. :) Of course, I didn't even know who he was until after I started the project...

[cordycord]

There was some discussion some time ago about who copied who. No sucjh thing as an origional idea anyway, we all have influences.

Cord, car is coming along GREAT. I think i might use this for my parking brake:
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=49&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=Sept_export#googlebase

Brad,

I looked at California rules and it looks like a hydraulic e-brake would be approved. Frankly most of this stuff probably depends on what side of the bed your inspector got up on...

[cordycord]

Since the engine is causing me issues, work has been switched to the body. The real body work won't happen until it's been installed on the car, but I started sanding down the main pods with 220 grit paper using a DA sander.

After about three hours the glossy gelcoat gave way to a really nice, flat chalkboard grey color. All of the fiber waves and gel peel have been ground down. The idea is to finish these pods so that they look like aluminum, so the preparation is key.

The good part about taking so long to work on this car is that the fiberglass is completely cured, stabilized and aged.

There's much more sanding to come. I surprised myself again by actually enjoying the work. It's just like the repetition of installing the pop-rivet floor. I must have worked on an assembly line in a former life. :D

[cordycord]

While I had hoped to be at the track this weekend, the car had other plans. We're going to pow wow over the engine on Saturday to try and find out why it won't spark. Hopefully all of the big brains hovering around the car will come up with the solution--a $2 one, no doubt.

While the engine sits, I've managed to grind down most of the bodywork. Only the very front and the very back remain, as well as the dash. We've jerked around with the dash so much that I won't be sanding it at all--at least until we figure out what we're doing with it. The fenders remain as well, but need to be widened first.

You really do need to see the silky chalk board finish on this body up close. It's going to paint up nicely. :)

[cordycord]

I wish I could be giving better news, but the car has sat for the past month with an electronic gremlin that keeps the engine from sparking. It turns over, but no spark. This has A LOT to do with the DISI motor I decided to use. It's so technically advanced that it's just not an engine that's swapped. But hell, why do it if it's easy, right?!

We've had Allen Johnson from Mazda--he teaches Mazda's technicians nationwide--to go over the car. While impressed, he said if we wanted to get the car on the road in a hurry, take out the motor and put in a 2.0 liter. Damn.:thumbdown2::thumbdown2::thumbdown2:

Tony and I are giving it one more week. One more week and the DISI gets tossed for a simpler engine and a simpler electronics package.

It's still early enough to make it this summer.....

[golftdibrad]

wow, that sucks.

[Nigel]

Tony and I are giving it one more week. One more week and the DISI gets tossed for a simpler engine and a simpler electronics package.....

Any News ? Been keeping my fingers cross for you Cord.

Nigel

[cordycord]

Thanks Nigel,

I'm finding that starting a new business, children, and the upcoming MotoGP this weekend at Laguna Seca are all competing for my interests. :run:

The Sonic sits, forlorn, in a corner of Dave Green's shop. I'm hoping to strip off the suspension on Tuesday, as the rest of the week is completely booked.

My only suggestion to anyone...everyone...stay away from the DISI motor unless you've got the ENTIRE automobile to pull parts from, have a degree in electrical AND mechanical engineering, and enjoy cooking s'mores over burning $100 bills.

Boy oh boy is it ever convertible weather here...

[pook]

question Cord, Does it spark once on initial crank or never?

PooK

[cordycord]

question Cord, Does it spark once on initial crank or never?

PooK

It cranks, but no spark. This particular engine needs to have the ECU and gauge panel connected in order to work. In addition, this unit may also need to have the "keyless key" and receiver present in order to work. The keyless key also needs to be synced to the electrical system.

All of that crap needs to be purchased and synchronized, and it ain't cheap. Oh, it's also non-returnable so if we make a mistake with the part purchase, oh well.

Tony is waiting (waiting, waiting) to get confirmation for the correct p/n's prior to ordering the extra possibly needed parts. Otherwise, we drop the engine, pop in a 2.0 mill, reconfigure the wiring and exhaust, and drive off. Either way, not simple...

[pook]

cool, I was talking with a friend the other day that works on those motors, He told me to ask because they are famous for slipping time (no key ways on crank or cam) and when they do the symptom is 1 spark as it checks its timing then a shut down when it realizes its off.
just a thought...
PooK

[cordycord]

cool, I was talking with a friend the other day that works on those motors, He told me to ask because they are famous for slipping time (no key ways on crank or cam) and when they do the symptom is 1 spark as it checks its timing then a shut down when it realizes its off.
just a thought...
PooK

Thanks Danny. We've already checked off the crank as the symptom. That was on top of our list as I made a custom aluminum crank for this car. It's not 'underdriven' in the classic sense of having a smaller diameter, but we saved a couple of pounds of rotating mass just with the crank. These crazy keyless cranks are just that, crazy. Does Porsche do this now too?

[golftdibrad]

Thanks Danny. We've already checked off the crank as the symptom. That was on top of our list as I made a custom aluminum crank for this car. It's not 'underdriven' in the classic sense of having a smaller diameter, but we saved a couple of pounds of rotating mass just with the crank. These crazy keyless cranks are just that, crazy. Does Porsche do this now too?

My TDI has a keyless camshaft gear. Its on a taper, but still freaks me out.

[pook]

Most new cars do yes. (I have cam jigs everywhere) I also know that if the dash (cluster), ecu, immobilizer (what ever ford/Mazda calls it) and key less systems don't match up there is no start authorization on euro cars. and when I say "matched" it isn't enough to be the same year, make, model unless the scan tool has a "temp replace with known good" button.
worse is that many now use a rolling code (it changes every time you hit the key) if they don't "align" no start.
The systems are If/Then

PooK

[cordycord]

Just in case you wondered, I'm still not done. :) There's a bugaboo in the electrical system that we think we've found. We thought that the re-flashed ECU would have taken care of ALL immobilizer issues, but it appears not. We've just ordered up some missing pieces--the starter coil, which is a round doughnut and associated wiring that "accepts" if the stock key is in the correct position, and allows the car to start. Of course we'll need to have the ECU re-flashed for the new keys as well, so it will be interesting to see what issues that brings up...

The car is at Dave Green's shop, DG Motorsports, for final bodywork fitment. We're figuring out how to fit the 'glass round the roll bar, how to add the lights, and generally how to make everything look good. One thing we're doing to make assembly easier is instead of bolting the bodywork together, we're 'glassing in T-nuts. It makes assembly about 100% easier. Set the t-nuts in fiberglass on one body panel, and then simply locate and screw in the other panel. Voila. I'll post pictures later.

Another time waster--I decided that my wife and two kids need a proper beach cruiser--and I (of course) need a proper race car hauler....so I bought a 1977 Chevy Blazer. :) Jeez, what was I thinking! Well, I'm thinking how much fun it will be to restore this puppy, take the top off and drive down to San Onofre state beach with my family. :) I've already ordered up a new fuel injected 350 engine (400hp) and a 700 automatic transmission, so not only will it smoke tires, but there are no carburetor worries and it will still get 25mpg. Woohoo!

[Karlo]

I like that flat black.

Very cool Blazer, and I think you might finish the Blazer first.

[golftdibrad]

progress!

I'm still not done either.

[cordycord]

I like that flat black.

Very cool Blazer, and I think you might finish the Blazer first.

That 'flat black' is actually the gloss black gelcoat that I've sanded down to nothing. It looks and feels like a chalk board up close. The car looks like a boat without the suspension on it. :D

The Chevy requires no development and no special skills. All I need to do is order parts from LMC and Classic Industries and them change 'em out. I'll be surprised if It's not restored by Halloween.

[cordycord]

progress!

I'm still not done either.

It's so good to see some other slackers on this forum. :)

[cordycord]

In case it's not obvious by the photographs, I stink at fiberglass. Regardless, I was able to install all of the T-nuts into the bodywork today. T nuts are threaded units that are usually used in furniture, but work just fine with fiberglass. It means that there will be a captured thread on one side of the bodywork, which will make assembly much easier.

1) Mix some putty (the snot-colored goop on the cardboard) with catalyst

2) Make sure the T-nut and the fiberglass surfaces are rough, and that excess wax is removed from the 'glass. It's also a good idea to put some oil on the mounting screws so they don't bond with the T nuts.

3) This is a messy process. The more you touch everything, the more you're going to screw it up, so keep the touching to a minimum. Screw the T nut in place, and then goop around the it. Once hardened, this will hold the T nut in place and make the assembly much simpler.

4) The last thing to do is take some pre-cut fiberglass matte, wet it with resin that's been catalyzed, and place the whole mess over the T nut. This further solidifies the assembly.

It feels good to be done with this mess, and to know that the pictures on this blog are all that anyone will see of my handiwork. :)

The final pictures of the the body look much like the mock up of the car before the engine was even installed, but now it's all being held by bolts and close to finished inside. Dave Green has some custom fabrication still to manage, but after that it will be ready for paint.

[cordycord]

I've been working on the 1977 Blazer instead of the Sonic lately. I actually intended to work on the Sonic last week, and ended up helping Dave work on a Hyundai Veloster car he's building (for Hyundai) for the LA Auto Show. Wow, is it ever a trip to make bodywork for an asymmetrical car.

While I didn't intend it, the Blazer has somehow ended up as a frame-off restoration. The engine was lifted from the frame today, and the frame will go for bead blasting next. What a bunch of oily crud accumulates on these old cars. I think Nigel would approve of the Blue and White paint scheme. :D

[cordycord]

Despite having more projects going now than at any time in my life, one of those is to get the damn Sonic on the road for summer! It's back on wheels, and the bodywork is nearly ready for paint. The single rear engine hatch was sectioned into three parts in order to get around the rollbar. Pictures at eleven.

[Nigel]

Despite having more projects going now than at any time in my life, one of those is to get the damn Sonic on the road for summer! It's back on wheels, and the bodywork is nearly ready for paint. The single rear engine hatch was sectioned into three parts in order to get around the rollbar. Pictures at eleven.

Thank goodness for that, I thought you'd almost given up :thumb2:

Roll on the sunshine :spin:

nigel

[cordycord]

The Sonic has been a project and a half. I should have just built it up as stock, but the DISI motor kept telling me to drop it in... :)

[Flat Black]

Bump for updates.

Did you ever get your ignition/immobiliser issues sorted?

[cordycord]

Bump for updates.

Did you ever get your ignition/immobiliser issues sorted?

I took the car to a dealership on Friday to get the keys re-flashed to the ECU. The ECU needs to "talk" to the gauge panel first, and they wouldn't. I spent five hours, FIVE HOURS at the dealership, waiting for a certain un-named ECU guru to call and walk us through the procedure.

Never happened. All I got was a bulging disc in my back from moving the Sonic onto the trailer single-handed. :thumbdown2: