gas tank

[soon_2b_evil]

How big is this gas tank actually? i didnt see a topic anywhere about this, so i fig i would ask.

[B-T]

It is 10 gallon capacity made of welded aluminum. The tank goes directly behind the seats and is the full width of the frame, and about 8 inches high or so. I am not sure about the fuel line pickup location / configuration, or where the shift cables are anticipated to go relative to the tank.
BT

[Karlo]

8 inch high gas tank is good height to keep the weight of the gas / liquid low:thumb2:

[B-T]

I agree that the low height helps keep the CG low, but is it likely / possible to run the fuel line dry on a sweeping corner (kind of like the oil starvation issue on some cars) when there is still maybe 1/4-1/3 of a tank left? Maybe there is some kind of internal baffle to keep the fuel pickup wet, or maybe it is a non-issue since the amount of fuel used is small during a 15 second duration.
BT

[soon_2b_evil]

heres another one. what kinda fuel pump is in the car or does it even come with one?

Maybe there is some kind of internal baffle to keep the fuel pickup wet, or maybe it is a non-issue since the amount of fuel used is small during a 15 second duration.
BT

yeha i was going ot ask that one too. maybe there is a internal baffle for that type of situation. anyone know for sure tho?

[B-T]

We will find out soon enough. I am also curious as to the battery tray placement / if the car comes with a battery. I have a spare to use that would save me from bringing it to the local household hazmat station.
:)
BT

[soon_2b_evil]

I actually cant wait for pictures of the final version cause i wanna see how and where the digital Gauge cluster goes. Yeha also finding out where the battery would go as well. Well regardless im going with one of those Drycell batterys.

[Craig – Absolute PACE]

Provided with the kit is a fibreglass dash binnicle to mount the digital gauge cluster in.

Yeah, something like a little odyssey 680 would be heaps or one of it's clones.

Cabling wise it would be much easier to keep the battery in the rear near the engine. But for weight distribution reasons I could see it going into the front, but then you will have a long cable run.

[Degeneerit]

Let me know if I am missing anything but the only things running off the battery are the engine, head tail and blinker lights and digi dash.

[Craig – Absolute PACE]

Yep, that sounds about right.

Hey, what about the creature comforts like air con, stereo system, interior lights, gps navigation etc? :D Oh that's right is a Superlite, not a Superheavy.

[B-T]

Plus fuel pump, radiator fan (I assume there is one), stereo (if you install one), wipers (if you install a windshield / wipers), license frame light (if you register for street use).
Not much compared to the typical car!
BT

[Craig – Absolute PACE]

Thanks BT, I assumed thermo fan, fuel pump etc was covered by the engine category stuff.

License plate light is a good one, forgot that one.

In Aus we also need to fit side indicators & high level brake light.

[soon_2b_evil]

Thanks BT, I assumed thermo fan, fuel pump etc was covered by the engine category stuff.

License plate light is a good one, forgot that one.

In Aus we also need to fit side indicators & high level brake light.


yeah actually thought about doing a high level brake light myself. I dont trust people around here driving and not being able to see me.

[ozvenom]

if you want the ultimate in weight saving there is some titanium bolts on evilbay at $4.50 for a 5/16 x 1" it could get expensive .
oz.

[Karlo]

This might be the model for the Superlite Roadster.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z302/landfalcon/www%20ExoCars%20net/www%20ExoCars%20net%20SLR/IMG_0876.jpg

[Chadillac]

I was looking at using the 255 LPH universal Walbro inline fuel pump.

http://www.erzperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=03inline255

Any thoughts?

[Karlo]

I was looking at using the 255 LPH universal Walbro inline fuel pump.

http://www.erzperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=03inline255

Any thoughts?

Are the Honda guys using a similar unit?

[soon_2b_evil]

Are the Honda guys using a similar unit?

yeha. most of the guys are running that Fuel pump. THats or a dual 255.

[aloysius]

Are the Honda guys using a similar unit?

I'm using a Walbro GSS342 to feed a honda k20a2. Check out this note:
http://www.vfaq.com/pump-Walbros.html

[Chadillac]

Nice find Aloysius. What are you doing for the fuel pressure regulator? I'm guessing that the 255lph will be way more than we'll ever need.

[aloysius]

Nice find Aloysius. What are you doing for the fuel pressure regulator? I'm guessing that the 255lph will be way more than we'll ever need.

I'm certain I'll not require more than that 60 GPH; not at $4.25/gal! Hell, I could fly an P51 on 60 GPH!

I'll have to limit the pressure to 40 PSI and to do that I'm adding a regulator inside the tank that came off of a honda h22 fuel rail. I'll just dump the excess fuel into the tank and forget the vaccuum pressure modulator connection.

[Chadillac]

I'll have to limit the pressure to 40 PSI and to do that I'm adding a regulator inside the tank that came off of a honda h22 fuel rail. I'll just dump the excess fuel into the tank and forget the vaccuum pressure modulator connection.

Would you mind expanding a little more Aloysius? I'm still a little confused on what you're planning on doing.

Does this mean that you're going to install an in-tank pump, run that to a regulator also inside the tank and have two lines running from the regulator one going to the engine and the other running excess fuel back into the tank? Won't that create a vacuum inside the gas tank without another line coming in? With an aluminum tank I'd be scared of running a delta pressure much higher than a few psi.

[aloysius]

The plan is to mimic the late model honda systems only using a walbro pump since that's what I have. Unlike the earlier honda systems that had two lines running to the engine, the later hondas use a pump and regulater inside the tank hence only one line to the fuel rail on the engine. There will be a removal of gasoline from the tank which will cause a negative pressure inside the tank which will be releaved by the same one way valve on the gas cap. I will have 3 large holes in the top of the tank (Maybe they'll already be cut out by Fran). One for the pump fixture, one for the level sensor, and one for a neck to add gasoline.

[Chadillac]

Thanks Aloysius. I understand now. I like your way much better than the way I was planning on doing it. You're not going to have to try and find a place to bolt the pump and regulator; and you'll only have one line going to the engine.

The only problem I see with me trying to do that is my holes have already been drilled in the side of the tank. I would have to cap the three small holes and drill larger holes on the top of the tank. Unless you went to gynecology school those holes are too small to try and mount your pump and regulator inside.

[Chadillac]

Here's a schematic for how to set up a surge tank. I'm leaning towards this route as it seems very reliable and there will be no modifcations to the gas tank.

http://sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm

[aloysius]

Here's a schematic for how to set up a surge tank. I'm leaning towards this route as it seems very reliable and there will be no modifcations to the gas tank.

http://sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm

Hmmm... Let's see if I understand you. That schematic shows an added tank and its mounting hardware, a second pump and its mounting hardware and its electrical wiring, and 5 more added hoses? Did I get that correct? You're right! That's an other way.

[Chadillac]

Well, as I see it I have three choices for a fuel system:

1) I could fill the tank with foam cubes, in which I'd have to cut a hole in the top of the tank and buy a new sender as the float arm sender won't work. I would then have to try and plug one of the three holes on the side.

2) I could cut open the gas tank, add a baffle and run the pump and the regulator inside. I'd have to plug two holes on the side and then find a good TIG welder to weld everything back together.

3) Add a surge tank with a few extra lines and wires.

Wiring an extra pump and attaching a few lines and a small surge tanks sounds a lot easier to me than trying to modify my gas tank.

[aloysius]

The pump is a Walbro GSS342 and the regulator is from an Honda H22. This tank had an original large hole right where I wanted it but it was welded over with the shown plate. The 2 inch fill port is located on the passenger side and the other bungs are located on the driver's side. I haven't received a fuel level sensor so I don't have an opening for it yet.

[aloysius]

.... I haven't received a fuel level sensor so I don't have an opening for it yet.

Not true any more.
I modified the fuel level sensor. I shortened the float rod 3 inches and cut down the sides of the flange. I mounted it clear on the passenger's side with the float to the left. Pointing the float the other way causes it to interfere with the tank. It is far to the right so if I have to cut a tunnel in the bottom of the tank for cables, I won't hit the float. Also, I will install a center baffel if I install the tunnel.

[Karlo]

aloysius car

"tank neck" isn't finished but you get the general idea along with "gas cap". The parts were also off a Prelude.

[Gage]

Aloysius, Bravo!

[Chadillac]

Here's what I did for my gas cap. I was nervous about not being able to use one of my side pods for a second radiator, but I think it looks pretty good. I moved my radiator to the other side and just have some long hoses.

For the filler neck I'm just using a 2" gas safe flex hose.

[aloysius]

Chadillac, your gas cap looks great! While talking about gas tanks, I ran across some stuff called "sealall". It comes in a tube and looks and smells like airplane glue. The really neat thing is it sticks to metal very well and dries clear and is sort of pliable while remaining inert to gasoline. if there's any leak, it's an easy permanent fix.

[Gage]

Chad, I think that looks fantastic. :clap:

[Chadillac]

Chadillac, your gas cap looks great! While talking about gas tanks, I ran across some stuff called "sealall". It comes in a tube and looks and smells like airplane glue. The really neat thing is it sticks to metal very well and dries clear and is sort of pliable while remaining inert to gasoline. if there's any leak, it's an easy permanent fix.

I think I may have found something like that. I used it along with some bolts to seal the three holes opposite the filler neck on the gas tank. It wasn't clear though.

[B-T]

Nice clean look Chad! I have heard that gasoline is not good for the gelcoat finishes, but I just keep a good coat of wax on the Ginetta. I spill some gas on almost every fill up, and have not seen any problems with the gelcoat. The project is starting to come together!!!
:)
BT

[Chadillac]

Thanks BT. I was a little worried about that. It's good to know that if I wax it up good it should be all right.

I also just received the brake master cylinders (2) from Fran. Aloysius got his much earlier, I'm not sure why it took so long to get mine. After I finish up the cooling system (just got the fan), it's on to the brakes!

[Chadillac]

Chadillac, your gas cap looks great! While talking about gas tanks, I ran across some stuff called "sealall". It comes in a tube and looks and smells like airplane glue. The really neat thing is it sticks to metal very well and dries clear and is sort of pliable while remaining inert to gasoline. if there's any leak, it's an easy permanent fix.

Do you think that this sealall is OK to use with brake fluid? I've got an idea with what to do with my brake fluid reservoirs and need something to seal some parts.

Also, how did you attach the fan to the radiator? I'm scared zip ties will eventually bend the fins.