part recommendations for homemade exo.

[Garage Dweller]

I am trying to work out all details before I start spending my money. I am thinking about building an ariel/rush/whatever exo car. I have already spoke to willwood about the pedal assembly and front brakes. Thinking of purchasing a wrecked 06-08 acura tsx for the 2.4engine/ecu/trans./and clutch.(maybe I could use brake and pedal ass.) Trying to keep it as inexpensive as possible.
Need suggestions on uprights, pook suggested solstice but where do you get them, how much?

Steering rack? I have found several at sand rail/dune buggy shops with 1.5turns lock to lock. Is that to fast for street?

Gauges ? I found doing a search the cool motorcycle multi gauge $350. Probably as good as its going to get.?

Wheels? Hubs? Thinking 5 lug for options. Not sure on offset, size. I do know I want wider than most. (my last project had 315 on rear) I realize that warming up this wide of a tire can be an issue with such a light car so as large as makes since.

Rod ends, Probably go 1 size larger than the AA where possible, but, what brand? Style? Where is the best place to purchase?
TIA For any input

[Karlo]

www.car-part.com will have all your Solstice parts and more

[Garage Dweller]

Thanks Karlo, I actually used them when buying parts for the cobra and I forgot about them.:run:

[pook]

I thought you wanted to use the Must II stuff so your Wilwoods would bolt right on?
PooK

[Garage Dweller]

POOK, I am looking for something to use for the REAR uprights, knuckles, whatever you call them. I think I have a knuckle, hub, caliper and rotor setup located for about $300. Is that a good price?

[pook]

That sounds like a good price. What are they?

Before you get to deep you should get this book, (Karlo has it listed on the right lower part of this forum). It's "How to build a motorcycle powered car" by Tony Pashley.
Ignoring the Motorcycle power stuff its great for some insight into what your up against building a car from scratch vs a kit. In fact if you click the book it lets you preview it, and you should read page 7..... sums it all up perfectly!
There are quite a few other books you'll need if you continue but this one is a good start when you switch from planning stage to building :thumb2:
PooK

[Garage Dweller]

I know that they are solstice, I think 07.
I have been researching other threads on homemade atoms. I found a very well documented thread in a Locost forum by a guy named JonW. He has a lot of good info. The one thing I found interesting was the fact that he stated that he purchased his front set of KONI shocks for $20. I have been price shopping ALOT and I can't seem to find a reasonable solution for the shock/springs.
I asked SANTA to bring me the the tube notcher that you recomended, also asked for a tank and some argon for aluminum. Oyeah I also found that a guy I know has a HF tube roller sat for 2" tube.
Thanks for the tip on the read.... Headed to page seven....NOW
Later

[Garage Dweller]

Pook....Just read page 7. Thats great.. I have already been through several of those moments when building my Factory Five Cobra. I know it was a "kit" but when you make changes to the kit i.e. add power steering, hydroboost brakes with bias adjuster, use none of the kit interior and go all leather, relocate e- brake to trans tunnel, make your own drive shaft safety loop, etc....etc..etc..there are plenty of obstacles. Now having said that I am probably going to be in WAY over my head with this "from scratch build" but ...as with the cobra , I have already found a great support group to help me through the tough stuff.:wave: :coolnana::awais::clap:

[pook]

Cool! I am glad you decided to go ahead.:thumb2:

If I can help in any way just let me know.

I will give you some starting advise concerning the HF roller...Get friends! that machine will put you down on 2":(

Cut your main tubes 1.5 ft longer than you need (the ends don't bend) and weld a small tube vertically off one end. Have your buddy hold this strait up and down while you roll till its got a fair amount of radius to it or it will cork screw on you. (Better yet after a few beers tell him how critical this part is and you hold it while he rolls)....then keep telling him "only three more to go"

When its at its limit (hits the small tube) Its the time to measure to duplicate.

Hope this helps.

PooK

[Garage Dweller]

Thanks for the heads up. I was planning on using a no dog clamped on the pipe, and still will for a back up, but your idea will be much easier to keep it true than a pair of channel locks.
Not saying that it is a definate go but if not it will be due to estimated cost, I am to dumb to be afraid. The whole shock thing is killing me. I want to use the bellcranks and coilovers but they are a bit salty.
Later

[Garage Dweller]

Looks like the R1 shocks will fit the budget.... I wounder where I got that idea???? I assume I can use them with the bellcrank setup?.?

[pook]

Great little shock! you can even get the bell crank thrown in if you shop right.
However....
They are affordable for two reasons. The first is you ain't cool with your crotch rocket unless you have a thousand dollar Ohlin on the back! so the bike guys sell them pretty cheap.
The second is that on the gas tank it says "don't drive this bike fast till after break in" and as soon as that's over the guy twists the throttle and does mach 4 into a parked car. Those are the ones you gotta watch, They don't have rod ends they use roller bearings and any twist kills the shock. They still get parted out and sold on ebay so its easy to get two good ones and two that are bent. (ask me how I know:()
So your going to do inboard susp?
PooK

[Garage Dweller]

Yeah, probably copy the AA set up. Or the set up like you used on the orange shock busa car. I was looking at the R1 shocks on ebay with the bellcrank included but I wasn't sure if they were heavy/strong enough. I have read about guys tearing up their factory bellcranks on the AA. Not the body but the bearings. Also do you know if there is a difference in the R1 shock and the R6? If the R6 is lighter spring will it work on the front????
Later GF

[VR4 Shaun]

Is it possible to use Afco-sourced swaged tubes and ball joint/heim joint ends for uprights and control arms? The parts come in a variety of sizes/lengths/diameters all from Jegs....

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/ColinWB/IMG_7469.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd268/OffroadKris/Talon/PB170294.jpg

[pook]

Also do you know if there is a difference in the R1 shock and the R6? If the R6 is lighter spring will it work on the front????
Later GF

Yes but they are still WAY much. Remember the bike has one rear spring that holds the bikes weight, driver, passenger all while doing a wheelie if you want to! that's near say 800lbs, the yellow coil is approx 50 or so lbs less but still in the 500lbs/inch range.

They can work but only if you design the susp to work with them, its easier just to build the susp geom the way you want then spring it later, trying to design in shock lay down or bell cranks to suit a spring weight would be a pain in the butt IMHO. (you would have to know the exact all up weight of the car before you begin the susp geom)

I think they use 2.25" id x 7 (free length) springs...Its at the shop but I "think" that's the spring.
PooK

[Karlo]

Is it possible to use Afco-sourced swaged tubes and ball joint/heim joint ends for uprights and control arms? The parts come in a variety of sizes/lengths/diameters all from Jegs....

Interesting setup, looks like it might be a good starting point.

[VR4 Shaun]

It is about $115 for two. You will need 16 total for all four corners with regular outboard shocks and springs. 20 with inboard shocks and springs... $920 - $1380 just for the control arms... Doesn't sound so good suddenly.