VR4 Shaun's Build Thread

[VR4 Shaun]

Hello all! I am an avid Mitsubishi enthusiast and mechanic and have been so for the past decade. I have owned numerous DSMs of varying flavors, two Dodge/Plymouth Colts(one of which was AWD 2.0 turbo swapped!), a Dodge Avenger that I autocrossed and my current Galant VR4. I am a weekend welder and fabricator with no formal training.

By chance I stumbled on this article in an old issue of Hot Rod Magazine: http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_0909_custom_speed_buggy/index.html

I am no lover of huge, heavy and hungry V8's; especially two of them coupled together! But the style and simplicity of this car speaks to me far more than the busy design and style of the Ariel Atom and other Exocars. The presence of a roof and windscreen also impressed me.

I started thinking and tallying up pieces and parts that I have in my garage. I decided that I would stay true to what I do and use almost entirely all Mitsubishi parts or make the pieces myself. I currently have a complete '92 Eagle Talon TSI AWD that I can use for what ever I please. I also have a decade's worth of Mitsubishi loving stuffed away into a garage.

I have drawn what I want the chassis to look like on paper and started making a brass wire scale model. Tonight I will design it in Sketchup or T-FLEX CAD; whichever is easiest to operate for my needs. It will follow very much the style of Sire's Buggy: A skinny front end that widens to make room for two people seated side by side then narrows into the engine/transmission area.

I originally wanted a front engine/rear driven car that I could call a "Rod" but I do not currently have the one transmission available to use a 4G63 in a RWD configuration nor will I spend the money or time on an adapter plate. I do, however, have a very nice FWD transmission and many FWD pieces. Building the car in a mid-engine RWD configuration also makes more sense from a turning and traction standpoint with cars of this weight.

[VR4 Shaun]

I figured out how to make the brass wire model! I was trying to use flux and an electric sodlering iron with an acid core solder. Then I tried the same wire with flux and a butane torch. The way I found worked best was no flux brushed on, heat the wire for a second, touch the acid core solder and boom it goes right in the joint.

This is by no means a scale model that I will be basing my cuts and welds on. It is just a rough idea and something to get the mind thinking. It lloks a lot like a late-model circle track racer but that will change.

I have downloaded Sketchup and found that it is difficult to design a tubular chassis with. I have a password from GrayTech for CAD X11 free edition; I will give that a try. Does anyone have a free CAD program that they would recommend?

I am not balding... It is all camera angle...

[Karlo]

It a real good beginning :D

[VR4 Shaun]

To the receeding hairline? HAHAHAHAHAHA

Thank you sir!

I also received some goodies today for my Galant... I will only post the links rather than the full pictures.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h290/TwoLiterTalon/1216101808.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h290/TwoLiterTalon/1216101818.jpg

[VR4 Shaun]

A fairly comprehensive parts list will definitely help to move the build along once the time comes. So far I have come up with the following:

Suspension:
I will be using front and rear spindles/uprights from a 95-99 Talon/Eclipse/Avenger/Sebring. Those cars all share the same suspension parts. The control arms I will be making myself from tubular chromoly tubing using welded in place threaded inserts matched to rod ends with jam nuts. I want to go with the very trick in-board strut and spring set-up but I am unsure which struts to use. Jegs and Summit both sell new QA-1 springs in various rates and lengths so finding the correct rate and length will not be difficult.

Brakes:
Using after-market large diameter rotors and high quality calipers would be very nice but the necessity of a mechanical emergency brake and price of said braking system pushes me toward the use of factory Galant VR4 dual-piston calipers on the front and 1g DSM rear calipers. I think these brakes will be more than sufficient for a car weighing less than half of what the original car weighed.

Steering:
Manual rack and pinion from a 1g DSM. I will also use a 1g DSM steering linkage that will be modified to fit the dimensions of the car.

Drivetrain:
A FWD transmission from a 1g DSM will be used. The shifter base and cables will have to be changed to reflect the move of the transmission to the rear of the car but the shifter mechanism itself will remain the same.

I know there are many other parts that will have to be considered such as seats, gauges, lighting and so forth but having the major components sorted is a great start.

Parts I currently have:
Steering rack
Steering linkage
Shifter cables and base
Clutch master cylinder
Brake master cylinder
4G63t engine
Equal-length CV axles
1g rear calipers w/ manual emergency brake
16" Konig Britelite rims in brite red

[Karlo]

Shaun, are you doing scratch build or do you have a set of plans?

[VR4 Shaun]

At the moment I do not have plans. I am definitely considering buying some of the books suggested by other members of the board. The wire frame model I made was done so from sketches I drew of how I want the frame to look.

[VR4 Shaun]

Google Sketchup is difficult at first but once I acclimated to how things were done I came up with this...


Definitely not a finished product and some fine tuning is needed. The basic shape and look that I want to achieve is spot on with this design.

[VR4 Shaun]

After some thought on the shifter assembly I used paint to chop this idea together from a picture of a factory shifter...
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h290/TwoLiterTalon/modifiedshifter.jpg

It will be tall but this image is just an idea of how it could be. It does reflect the need to "reverse" the shifter assembly's motions so the transmission is correctly shifted and the typical shifting pattern is preserved.

[VR4 Shaun]

Picture of factory shifter assembly.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h290/TwoLiterTalon/choppedshifter.jpg

[pook]

That's cool! How did you get Sketchup to do tubes? Ive tried and tried.
When you finalize your design you should get a copy of Bend-tech you can plot your chassis and break it down to each tube complete with bend locations and miters ready for fab work. It isn't free but it'll will pay for itself in wasted tubing very quickly.
Nice model as well, Those are great for twisting to "see" what gives in real life!

PooK

[VR4 Shaun]

Thanks pook man! I gotta buy some more brass wire to finish that model. It doesn't have the right shape and dimensions but it looks cool as a mantle piece.

To do tubes in Sketchup I draw lines shaped how I want a tube to be shaped. Then I draw a circle that has the diameter of the tube I want to use for that particular piece, rotate it to have the correct angle of the tube I am working on and attach it at the mid point of the line I that I drew. Then I use either the "Follow Me" extrude tool or the simple "Push/Pull" extrude tool. Most of the time I have to go back and rotate or move the finished tube so it is in the right place. The joints all look funny up close in the program and sometimes I just can't get the tube to sit in the place I want it to sit in. But everything is scaled correctly. The tires are 24" which is what a 225/45/16 tire is. (23.9xxx close enough...) So I have a really good idea on how long most of the tubes will need to be.

Those other programs are definitely worth looking at! Thank you for the suggestion.

[pook]

have you tried the plastic? They sell it at hobby shops and its scale sized and just glues together?

PooK

[VR4 Shaun]

I will give that a try. I looked at the BendTech software. I would really like to have the EZ 3D version. I am going to put $150 aside just for that software....

[VR4 Shaun]

Just thought I would stop by and say THIS BUILD ISN'T DEAD! HAHA

I just yesterday bought a 16 ton pipe bender that can bend up to 3.5" pipe to a maximum 90 degrees and a 14" chop saw. Also recently acquired a small 220V DC TIG welder and I will be buying a flux-core MIG tomorrow for very cheap. The MIG will be converted to a regular MIG, I don't like that flux mess.

As far as the car... I do still want to do a Mitsu-powered Exo but recently ideas of a single-seater bike powered car have been rumbling around my head. This weekend I am going to work on a frame design, it will probably lean toward what the Nemesis looks like. Power-plant will ultimately be whatever I can find for cheap but I would like to have a lighter bike engine such as an R1/R6 (my father is a Yamaha tech so tuning and set-up would be a breeze) or another liter-bike engine. I know the bigger engines make great power but with a single-seater I feel the liter, or even 600cc, engines will be sufficient.

See you guys later!

[Karlo]

Moving forward is good :)

[Garage Dweller]

WHAT !!! You were SO big on the 4g63t, that you talked me into using one, and now you are thinking motorcycle motor.:run:... Thats O.K.you can help me tune mine and then I can smoke your A#$!!!! LOL Bart
Good to see you back around.:wave:

[VR4 Shaun]

I know man. I currently have a 4g61 4-door Mirage project and my Galant VR4 project, which is being swapped to automatic with a paddle-shifter set-up. You better believe I still want to do a 4g63 Exo. At the DSM/Evo Shoot-Out I even witnessed a 4g-powered Exo. Can't remember who made the frame but I know it was a purchased kit rather than a home-made. With a "basic" 4g set-up the car ran mid-11s in the quarter mile. Sadly, I did not get to see it run the Auto-X course. The best part about building a single-seater is I can build it during the winter in my basement. Then carry it outside in pieces and assemble.

[VR4 Shaun]

Took some time and designed the frame for my single-seater.

[VR4 Shaun]

Woo-hoo! I won some Koni Yellow universal shocks on eBay for less than $150 shipped! They all have spherical mounts top and bottom and two of them come with threaded coil-over perches. Very happy that I won all four of them for the price of just one Koni universal shock new. Hopefully this wreck motorcycle I am working on pulls through....

[Garage Dweller]

Congrats on the koni's but for that small of a frame you should REALLY look for a set of used R1 shocks...... Hey wait :old: I have a great idea. I just happen to have all 4 R1's like you need. I will do you a gret deal and swap even.:coolnana::clap::awais: LOL

Hey, what is up with this cad design stuff? Get a tape measure and some pipe and go to the basement !! AAAH You probably want your to actually work. :thumb2:
Later

[VR4 Shaun]

HAHAHA I got the Konis for for less than I could get the R1 units. BUT I still have to get two coil-spring perches and some springs. !BUT! that is okay because the R1 springs will be MUCH too stiff for a 800-900lb car.

[Garage Dweller]

Hey Shaun, when building a chassis I assume that a 45 deg angle on the braceing is the strongest. Is that correct? Also how much chassis stifness is gained by increasing the VERY BOTTOM ie. floor pan fom 1" to 1 1/2" O.D.. ? Getting ready for floor pan this weekend.
Thanks

[VR4 Shaun]

The optimal angle for a tube would depend on what direction the stress will be applied to said tube. I do not think there is an optimal angle for all situations. For all of my "main" frame tubes I will be using 1.5" outer diameter with 0.120" wall thickness 1020 alloy steel. Chromoly is too expensive and too brittle(from what I have read) for a car that I expect to last a few years on the street.

I am using Google Sketchup, which is freeware. It does not have any kind of structural analysis so I am not sure what difficulties I will encounter once the car is complete. The good news is that any obscene flex can be remedied with gussets or more tube. At the cost of weight, of course. Just for the fun of being able to design and play with various designs I suggest you down load Sketchup.

I will be buying steel and jumping into it hard core as soon as I fix my leaking basement...

[VR4 Shaun]

WOO-HOO!!! I just won this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180731802315&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123

Most of the bike is ruined. But the pieces I planned to use are the front and rear brake calipers, gauge cluster, engine and wiring. The bottom end of the engine is damaged but that can be remedied with a new block or some welding.

Thankfully my father is a Yamaha certified technician and has the equipment and knowledge to perform any repairs or upgrades necessary to this engine.

Between the Koni Yellow shocks and this bike I could not be happier. The remainding parts for my build will be purchased new from various suppliers.

[VR4 Shaun]

Picked up the bike today. Used my 4-door Eagle Summit. Took out the back seat and disassembled the bike until it fit. Monday I will be pricing steel from various local vendors. This was to be a winter project but I am going to get a jump on it and hopefully have it ready to go for the spring.

[Garage Dweller]

Now your talkin !!!A little less cad and a lot more cuttin !!! Keep us posted.